# Homemade winger pictures and information



## Kendall Steffensen (Sep 19, 2011)

On another thread I mentioned that I would start a new post with homemade winger information, so here it is.

First and foremost, Kwicklabs and other RTF members deserve the credit for the winger and electronics design. I just took their already established ideas and added what I thought were a few good modifications. Here are a few pictures and a general description of the ones I put together.

The back legs are 42", front legs are 48", the support leg is 30", the top is 18" square, and the base is 22" across.

A couple pictures show how I made bushings instead of rotating cylinders for the hinges. The bushings were made from 3/4" straight fittings cut in half, which fit over 3/4" pipe but inside the 1" T fittings. All of the PVC pipe is 3/4".

There are two pictures of the electronics boxes. The picture of the outside of the box shows a siren on the top, an on/off switch on the front, and a trailer connector on the side. The six channel transmitter is laying in front of box. The picture of the inside of the box shows the two channel receiver, a 12 volt rechargeable battery, and the wires that connect everything.

The primer assembly was made from the design on Kwicklabs website except I zip tied the rubber bands behind the 1/4" to 1/8" fitting so that I did not have to unhook them every time I reloaded. I also located the primer assembly on the base instead of one of the legs. The assembly is shown in a couple pictures.

The picture of the base shows the door lock actuator and the bow release system as well as another bushing system which allowed me to glue everything together instead of having loose joints held together with zip ties. The bushing system also allowed me to add short legs to get the release system up out of the grass.

The transmitter and receivers were ordered from Cary-mart, the batteries were ordered from Battery Shark, the sirens, switches, and wire were purchased at Radio Shack, the pipe, fittings, and hardware were purchased at Menards, the bow releases and door lock actuators were purchased from e-Bay, and the pouch, pulleys, and tubing came in a kit from Dogs Afield.

If you need more detail, let me know.

Kendall


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## mudd (Jul 22, 2010)

I didnt see the other thread yet but was wondering whats the farthest youve used them at and how far do you estimate they throw a wet mallard?

Thanks


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## Kendall Steffensen (Sep 19, 2011)

I have used them at over 150 yards. Range depends upon the electronic equipment you buy. I bought a 1,000 meter transmitter and receivers with an external antenna. They are rated using a straight line of sight, which never happens. I would like to think they would go half their rated distance, which is twice what I need.

I didn't use a tape meansure, but stepping it off they will throw a wet mallard 23 yards. I had to add a shorter set of hooks to throw dummies as they would go sky high.

Thanks,
Kendall


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## divealso (Apr 18, 2011)

Thanks for posting Kendall


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## Eric Fryer (May 23, 2006)

I made some of these 4 years ago and used them pretty heavily. For electronics I bought Dogtra with the idea of upgrading when i had the money. They worked great and definately served thier purpose. If you plan on upgrading to a zinger or Gunners up in the future look at buying your electronics now it allowed me to pay as I had money.


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## Kendall Steffensen (Sep 19, 2011)

Danny,no problem. If you have any questions let me know.

Eric, I have the same thought. I am going to use the homemade electronics for a while then upgrade to commercial electronics. There is nothing wrong with my electronics, but it would be more convenient if mine would match the rest of the training groups. I like the my winger's performance, so unless something changes I'm going to stick with them.


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## fishn (Jul 24, 2007)

Kendall, 

What do you think these would cost to build without the electroniocs?
Would you be interested in building a couple of these to sell? 
I have a couple of new Tri-Tronics releases but don't have wingers (and cannot really afford new), and don't really know how the releases would be hooked up, as I have never used these before as far as setting them up. A friend of mine has some, but I have only seen them in operation once and did not pay attention to how they hook up (and he does not live real close by).

Thanks


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## SMontgomery84 (Jan 26, 2012)

I was able to build mine for about $80 using pouches from Zinger, Theraband and bow releases and door actuators from EBay.


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## KwickLabs (Jan 3, 2003)

It never ceases to amaze me that the 2004 thread on PVC wingers still generates interest. One of the early questions revolved around "How could this PVC structure/design hold up?" and Doesn't PVC flex too much?" 

The prototype wingers that were built in 2004 are still working. The electronics are original, too. Here's a photo of the eight year olds used in a training session on April 17, 2012. They've been used extensively in the training of my four dogs. The only components replaced are the batteries and rubber bands. 

*"the four original Kwick Wingers"*


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## jecartag (Feb 25, 2011)

KwickLabs said:


> It never ceases to amaze me that the 2004 thread on PVC wingers still generates interest. One of the early questions revolved around "How could this PVC structure/design hold up?" and Doesn't PVC flex too much?"
> 
> The prototype wingers that were built in 2004 are still working. The electronics are original, too. Here's a photo of the eight year olds used in a training session on April 17, 2012. They've been used extensively in the training of my four dogs. The only components replaced are the batteries and rubber bands.
> 
> *"the four original Kwick Wingers"*


Hey Jim,

Is that camoflauge duck tape around those wingers? I like the looks rather than my white wingers.

ALSO, I made my wingers from KwikLabs design and I agree, they are very sturdy and not had problems. However, here is a winger PVC made from conduit

http://media.photobucket.com/image/conduit winger/MikeBons/Winger046.jpg


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## KwickLabs (Jan 3, 2003)

> Is that camoflauge duck tape around those wingers?


I used "camo" spray paint.


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## rider (Apr 1, 2010)

i just wanted to say thanks for the ibfo on your home made wingers. building three and cannot wait to try them out.


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## Kendall Steffensen (Sep 19, 2011)

Fishn,

I would plan for a higher cost than the $80 mentioned above. The pouch/pulley/bands kit from Dogs Afield is $50. If you want Zinger Winger brand, their kit is $90. A Tru-Fire patriot bow release is $20.  PVC pipe and fittings will be $30 give or take. The small items like a car door lock actuator, hooks to hold the bands, bolts to attach the actuator and hooks, PVC cleaner and cement, zip ties, etc. will add up to $30 give or take. This is just for the winger assembly.

Your Tritronics release will operate the door lock actuator. A trip to Radio Shack for a plug and a bit of wire and your set. You will have to build some type of bracket to velcro your reciever to one of the legs.

Kendall


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## SMontgomery84 (Jan 26, 2012)

Kendall is probably right. I had a few items like glue, wire, butt connectors and zip ties that I didn't have to buy. My bow releases were $12. I found plastic pulleys from Farmtek for $.99 each that were suggested by someone on this site.

As others have stated, I really appreciate KwikLabs spending the time to post the info on these wingers. It is a genius idea.


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## glock (Mar 23, 2012)

thanks to all for sharing this information!


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## fishn (Jul 24, 2007)

Thanks everyone, especially Kwiklabs and Kendall for sharing this info. I didn't think launchers were going to happen this year, now, maybe so, Good Lord willing! Thanks again


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## John Fields (May 13, 2011)

Kendal,
Can you buy releases from Gunners up or someone like that and incorporate it into this design. I am going to try to build 4 of these. If I could get releases pouches and bands for these I could do as many have mentioned and get some better releases at a later time.

I as other appreciate you sharing this, it will save me a ton of money.


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## BREKKE22 (Mar 23, 2009)

These look very nice.


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## Kendall Steffensen (Sep 19, 2011)

John,

I checked the Gunners Up and Zinger Winger web sites and it looks like they do not sell their release system separately. They do sell replacement pouches, bands, pulleys, etc. If you are talking about upgrading to commercial electronics, both Tri-Tronics and Dogtra electronics will operate the car door lock actuator.

I appreciate the positive comments,
Kendall


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## Kendall Steffensen (Sep 19, 2011)

I received pm's requesting a parts list, a cut list, and instructions. Since I started with Kwicklabs idea and a trip to Menards, I don't have any of these. What I did do is write down a general overview, which is posted below. I hope that between the pictures I posted a couple days ago and the thoughts posted below, anyone that's interested can start off on the right foot.

Thanks,
Kendall


Winger Items

6	¾ 90-degree fittings
6	¾ by ¾ by ¾ T fittings
5	1 by 1 by ¾ T fittings
3	¾ cap fittings
3	¾ straight fittings
3	10-foot sections of PVC pipe

Release Items

Bow release
Car door lock actuator
Heavy pound fishing line
Small eye screw

Electronics Items

Two channel receiver
Six channel remote
Small 12-volt battery
Siren or Buzzer
Single pole single throw automotive switch
Project box
Velcro with adhesive backing
Black and red wire
Crimp connectors

General Winger Dimensions

Back legs	42”
Front legs	48”
Support leg	30”
Top square	18”

General bushing design

Cut the ¾ straight fittings in half making sure to remove the stop from inside the fitting. This creates six bushings.

Using a hammer and wooden block, tap the bushing onto the appropriate section of PVC pipe far enough to allow the 1 by 1 by ¾ T fitting to be clear of the ¾ fitting that is to be cemented to the end of the PVC pipe.

After the cement cures, slide the 1 by 1 by ¾ T fitting over the ¾ fitting that was just cemented and tap the bushing inside the 1 by 1 by ¾ T fitting until it hits the stop. Using a Q-tip place cement in the gap between the bushing and PVC pipe avoiding the fitting.


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## LMB (Jun 29, 2012)

Gundogsupply sells 2 versions of the Zinger Winger release. Both have 209 primer report built in.

Here is my 2 cents worth of design improvement. Go to flexpvc.com and look at the "slip slide pvc T". It should work for all of the rotational/hinge T's without making the bushings you describe.

I would post links to both of the above but not allowed to yet.

I have not made any yet. I wold really like more detailed pictures of the EMT conduit ones though. Maybe a diffrent thread if it makes this one more cluttered.


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## hawker (Jul 3, 2012)

You guys rock.


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## Kendall Steffensen (Sep 19, 2011)

LMB,

I considered slip T's as well but they have a couple drawbacks. First, they do not contain stops which means there is nothing to keep them from sliding sideways when the winger legs are under pressure from the bands. Both Kwicklabs rotating cylinder design and my bushing design solves that problem. Second, they are about three times as expensive as standard T fittings.

Thanks for the heads up on where to buy Zinger Winger releases. I would predict some will want to incorporate it into their own winger design. For $165 I am going to stick with with the $30 bow release/lock actuator system.

Jeremy was very helpful when I started the PVC winger process. He made the conduit winger posted a few days ago, I would predict he would point you in the right direction.

Thanks,
Kendall


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## LMB (Jun 29, 2012)

Kendall,
Thanks for pointing out the faults of the sliding T. I will not have to go down that route now. I am trying to fabricate a homebuilt version of the Zinger Wiinger release, which is why I havent built the winger yet. I do not want to pay $165 either. The EMT design caught my eye because i have a bender and enough EMT in my shop to fabricate one relitavity easy.
Thanks again for condensing all the information about Home made wingers into a easy to read post. Your design is really refined.


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## Corytdf (Aug 5, 2011)

I have built two of these myself. Only I found plans on the internet to make my remote part with a Motorola radio it seems to work fine. I also went down to the fabric store and bought the fabric and nylon straps to sew my own pouch. I bout a grommet kit from the hardware store and had it done in about an hour. I experimented with several types of surgical tubing but eventually just ordered the Winger replacement band set from gundogsuply. all in all I am happy with the launchers. I would like to have a schematic or plans and a source to make the remote part more like the one shown here. The way I’m doing it works great as long as nobody is on the same radio station as me.... few surprise launches have almost taken my head off.


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## Kendall Steffensen (Sep 19, 2011)

Corytdf,

The concept of using a two way radio set up and a receiver/transmitter set up is the same. The receiver replaces the two-way radio at the winger and the transmitter replaces the two way radio at the line. The wiring for the receiver is very straight forward, basically the receiver creates an on/off switch in the positive wire that runs between the battery and the lock actuator. I purchased electronics from from Cary-mart, but there are other brands out there as well.

Thanks,
Kendall


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## Corytdf (Aug 5, 2011)

Thanks Kendall i just checked that out and i might upgrade to that system.


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## jecartag (Feb 25, 2011)

Corytdf said:


> I have built two of these myself. Only I found plans on the internet to make my remote part with a Motorola radio it seems to work fine. I also went down to the fabric store and bought the fabric and nylon straps to sew my own pouch. I bout a grommet kit from the hardware store and had it done in about an hour. I experimented with several types of surgical tubing but eventually just ordered the Winger replacement band set from gundogsuply. all in all I am happy with the launchers. I would like to have a schematic or plans and a source to make the remote part more like the one shown here. The way I’m doing it works great as long as nobody is on the same radio station as me.... few surprise launches have almost taken my head off.


Cory,

Here is the link to a thread I started within the last year that has a schematic on the electronics. Like Kendall, I also used Cary-Mart products. I have not had any problems with them...there are many routes you can take but this is just the route I took. Check out the link...my labeled diagrams are on page 2 down toward the bottom (past the picture with the green box). Hope this helps!

http://www.retrievertraining.net/fo...s/page2&highlight=homemade+winger+electronics


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## ndk3819 (Mar 12, 2012)

so here's a stupid question to add to the thread. Where are you all finding the components for the 209 primer firer, i've tried lowes and home depot both and all they have is brass and i cannot find the 1/4" to 1/8 reducing coupling. Any help would be great.


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## Kendall Steffensen (Sep 19, 2011)

ndk3819,

I found all of the parts for the primer assembly, except the 1/8" close nipple, at Menards. I picked up the 1/8" close nipple at Ace Hardware. At both Menards and Ace Hardware the galvanized fittings were in a different section of the store than the brass fittings. The rolled steel rod was in a different section as well.

Thanks,
Kendall


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## ndk3819 (Mar 12, 2012)

Guess i was having a blonde moment yesterday, completely forgot about checking ACE. Went in today and found exactly what i needed. Also want to say thanks for all the information you and the rest put together, was very helpful.


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## cwilson (Feb 18, 2011)

I made 6 of these this spring and love them. I used 1" square aluminum tubing and Dogtra electronics. These things are light weight and pack/store easily which is great for me since I live in town and can't use an ATV and have little storage space at home.


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## ndk3819 (Mar 12, 2012)

Just finished redoing my electronics for my wingers that i built using kwick lab et al's design. I purchased the carymart electronics but did not have the forsight to get them with external antennas. Therefore with my original design, i had the recievers inside a project box and the result was a range of about 40 yards tops. Pictured is the rebuild, i attached the 2 recivers and siren to the outside of the box and also opened up the reciever housing and pulled the internal antenna through on of the slots letting it stick out above the pole i mounted the box on. Thought this might help anyone else who is having trouble with range using the carymart electronics.


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## Kendall Steffensen (Sep 19, 2011)

ndk3819,

The strength of the transmitter is the primary factor in determining range. Meaning that if the transmitter signal is not strong enough to reach the receiver, the receiver will never know a signal is being sent. The secondary factor is the reception capability of the receiver. Meaning that the larger the receiver's antenna the weaker signal it can detect.

A quick analogy is listening to a radio station while driving in a car. The higher wattage the station, the farther you can drive and still listen to the music. You can also listen longer with a intact antenna than you can with a broken antenna.

Check the meter rating for your transmitter. I would predict you will only get 1/4 to 1/2 the rated distance as it is calculated using a straight line of sight, under ideal conditions, with a new battery, etc.

Since you can't increase the meter rating for your transmitter, you might be able to increase the reception capability of your receivers by adding your own external antenna. On another thread, I read of adding 3' of wire with an alligator clip for easy on and off.

Kendall


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## ndk3819 (Mar 12, 2012)

Kendall,

Thanks for the tip. I'll try that next if i have to. As it is, with the changes i made i was able to increase the distance from about fourty yards to at least 125. Ran out of room in the neighborhood last night when i was testing it, but definately increased the range signifcantly. Ideally i want to be able to use these up to 250 yds max, so i'll try your suggestion out if i am unable to get there with what i got.


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## dukxdog (Jan 3, 2008)

Thanks for posting


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## supersize (Sep 6, 2013)

Kendall, 

Could you share with me how you made this?


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## zeekster (Jun 15, 2009)

Your PVC wingers look good, you could probably adapt them to Zinger Winger firing mechanisms I know the cost is more but gives you a variety of shots to fire plus the work with any electronics.

Dave


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## bigpuddin43 (Feb 7, 2016)

Kendall Steffensen said:


> I received pm's requesting a parts list, a cut list, and instructions. Since I started with Kwicklabs idea and a trip to Menards, I don't have any of these. What I did do is write down a general overview, which is posted below. I hope that between the pictures I posted a couple days ago and the thoughts posted below, anyone that's interested can start off on the right foot.
> 
> Thanks,
> Kendall
> ...


http://www.carymart.com/10a-dc-6912...-transmitter-controls-4-receivers-p-1870.html

I was wondering if this would work for setting up 4 wingers. I think I am understanding everything correctly but want to be sure before I purchase.
Winger Items


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## Matt Steffes (Jan 23, 2014)

This is the Carymart kit that I went with for my homemade wingers. http://www.carymart.com/12channel-d...f-switch-1-transmitter-6-receiver-p-1391.html

I have 4 wingers. I opted to buy 6 2-channel receivers so that I could have spare parts on the shelf (since the electronics are shipped from China, there's a 3-4 week shipment timeframe). I use channel 1 on the receiver to trigger the launch, and I use channel 2 on the receiver to trigger audio.

By going with the kit, the remote/transmitter was pre-programmed for me (buttons 1-2 are receiver 1, buttons 3-4 are receiver 2, etc.)


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## Misty Marsh (Aug 1, 2003)

Thinking about brining in Elsema stuff again. I closed the business a few years ago, but still have the account and they have a 4-8 channel transmitter that will work reliably to 266 yards and a weatherproof receiver that is compatible. I will look into the costs, may be a great solution, or it may be too expensive to make sense in the DIY world. Will let you guy's know.


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## mkb270 (May 17, 2016)

I have seen a lot about complete homemade winger kits but I have a Zinger hunt tester that is remote ready. Has anyone developed a transmitter/receiver setup that will just plug up to the wire currently on the winger? It has an actuator connected to the release so I assume all it needs is the signal.


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## drunkenpoacher (Dec 20, 2016)

First home built winger.
Wish I could find pulleys cheaper.


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## BCRETRIEVERS (May 13, 2016)

drunkenpoacher said:


> First home built winger.
> Wish I could find pulleys cheaper.
> View attachment 44418


Lookin to build a couple myself. Do you know what it cost to build...and possibly have a youtube video of it's performance?? T


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## etalley (Aug 19, 2012)

Thanks for posting.


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## drunkenpoacher (Dec 20, 2016)

I don't know the exact cost. Most of the steel was actually a safety rail I took off a tree stand. The pulleys plus shipping were about $64.
I ordered some steel and plane to make 2 or 3 more, maybe this week. I will try to keep track of the costs and post more photos.
Not very tech savvy but i will attempt to post a video.


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## drunkenpoacher (Dec 20, 2016)

Here is a video of the thrower I made. Hope I uploaded it correctly, never did it before.
Throws a Dokken about 20 yards I'm guessing, didn't measure it.
Using Dogtra electronics.

P.S.
WOW, the video worked.


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## BCRETRIEVERS (May 13, 2016)

drunkenpoacher said:


> Here is a video of the thrower I made. Hope I uploaded it correctly, never did it before.
> Throws a Dokken about 20 yards I'm guessing, didn't measure it.
> Using Dogtra electronics.
> 
> ...


Very impressive! Thanks for taking the time to upload the video. Looks like you have the perfect proto test puppy , and a winning launcher to boot. Did you try industrial supply warehouses like Motion Industries for pulleys? Will start a search online and let you know if I can find a cheaper but still quality pulley. Nice work, Tks, T


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## drunkenpoacher (Dec 20, 2016)

Search a few different places for pulleys with minimal success. From what I read on this forum and elsewhere, nylon pulleys are the way to go. I guess the price wasn't so bad compared to the crappy pot metal pulleys available locally for $9-$10. If you can find a bargain it would be great. Obviously I'm cheap, making may own wingers.


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## NateB (Sep 25, 2003)

I have been told to look at pulley from sailing equipment websites, they are more expensive but roll a lot smoother. Supposedly get a much better throw since you are not losing as much energy getting the pulleys to roll. Have not tried them myself, but I think the guy that built the old RT tosser, (had a single, double and quad bird launcher,) used a higher end pulley and a couple guys I know thought it made a difference.
Just FYI


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## drunkenpoacher (Dec 20, 2016)

NateB said:


> I have been told to look at pulley from sailing equipment websites, they are more expensive but roll a lot smoother. Supposedly get a much better throw since you are not losing as much energy getting the pulleys to roll. Have not tried them myself, but I think the guy that built the old RT tosser, (had a single, double and quad bird launcher,) used a higher end pulley and a couple guys I know thought it made a difference.
> Just FYI


I heard the same thing, may have been mentioned on this thread. I did find pulleys from a sailing supplier for just a little more than the ones I ordered from Gunners Up. Maybe they are worth a try, if I can find them again.


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## Mike Sale (Feb 1, 2011)

drunkenpoacher said:


> First home built winger.
> Wish I could find pulleys cheaper.
> View attachment 44418


Did you make the release ?


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## drunkenpoacher (Dec 20, 2016)

Mike Sale said:


> Did you make the release ?


Yes I did.


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## drunkenpoacher (Dec 20, 2016)

Finally got a couple more wingers built. They work well.
Not difficult to make. $100 maybe less each for materials.
I can try to give better details if anyone is interested.


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## drunkenpoacher (Dec 20, 2016)

View attachment 49954
View attachment 49962
View attachment 49978
View attachment 49986
View attachment 49994
View attachment 50002
View attachment 50010
View attachment 50018








For those that have asked, here are some more photos of my wingers.

Tools needed are;
Wire welder
Drill, a hand drill will work
4 inch grinder
Saw, power hacksaw or chop saw
File
Soldering iron & solder
Wrenches and various hand tools

Materials and approximate costs
3/4" 16 ga. square tubing 24 ft stick $18
enough for 1 winger

1/8 X 2" Flat steel about 28" per winger
1/8 x 1 in flat steel about 24 in per winger
I purchased steel from a supply house, weld shop usually mark it up a lot.


3/8OD 1/8 ID speargun tubing 30ft $40
from Amazon can be purchased
in different lengths 4 x 48 inch pieces per winger

Door lock actuators found 4 for $11 on Amazon

Pulleys from Gun dog supply $50 per 4 free shipping on $125 orders

Wiring and plugs for your electronics. 
I use Dogtra that takes 3.5mm plugs,
As I recall a plug with pigtail cost about $5
I ordered them but can't recall where from. If you have a radio shack type store nearby they will have them. The wire on the ones I have are very fine. Heavier wire would be easier to work with. 
You will also need solder and or wiring connectors, black tape etc.

I used 1/4 inch bolts 1 1/2 and 2", nuts, washers, lock nuts. About $3 per pound, I didn't count them.

5 1/4" eye bolts to attach the pulleys and one to hook the release.

Small Plastic ties for attaching the tubing.

My wife made the pouches out of material she had and some nylon strap to reinforce. The nylon strap was from the cheap harnesses that come with every tree
stand. Grommet kits are available at most hardware stores for a few dollars.
If you don't have someone to sew for you I think Tear Mender Glue would work well with old hunting clothes for fabric.

Hope I didn't forget anything.
The photos will hopefully show the measurements and how I built them. 

The release mechanism is actually very simple I used mainly a saws-all, hacksaw and file. Use washers to space the steel front and back pieces so the trigger and release arm can pivot. The part I call the trigger, connected to the actuator, needs to have the pivot bolt hole in line with the point where the release arm catches the notch. If you do it wrong first, as I did, your only out a few inches of strap.

Please feel free to ask me questions. I'm sure I haven't explained everything very well. If I was more talented and better looking I'd make a video.


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## drunkenpoacher (Dec 20, 2016)

I'll get the rest of the photos up as soon as I can.


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## drunkenpoacher (Dec 20, 2016)




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## drunkenpoacher (Dec 20, 2016)




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## drunkenpoacher (Dec 20, 2016)

Hooray, Finally got some photos to post.

Hope these help explain how I built them (no offense to our former president meant).

As i mentioned before, some of the steel was scavenged from tree stands including the parts with 90 degree bends. 
Square tube is difficult to bend, you need to make a jig and heat it. Easier to just cut and weld. The slight angles in the legs were made by cutting partway through with a saw. bending to close the saw kerf and then welding.


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## Mark Couch (Jan 20, 2017)

Sometimes tubing or pipe is filled with sand before heating to bend to help keep it from collapsing.


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