# Truck Box under Truck Cap ** Homemade & Retail **



## Otter22 (Nov 26, 2009)

Hey guys,

I've seached every internet engine on diffrent boxes and need something to fit under my truck cap with insulation and a fan (living in Virginia now with heat / cold and moving back to Maine in a few more years...).

Would like something with storage. Adding some wingers soon so long storage.

Thought you guys might like this hadn't seen'em before: http://www.cabtransitboxes.co.uk/homepage_image_pages/home_04.php

Main Needs:
- Easy to clean
- Plenty of storage
- Provide most comfort for my dog (only one now but plan on getting one more)

Any pics for ideas greatly appretiated.


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## badbullgator (Dec 20, 2004)

I built a platform form PT wood over my wheel wells. It goes from the back of the cab about ¾ ways back to the tailgate. This allows me to place to crates on the platform and have plenty of storage underneath for big items like wingers. I can easily get 4 GU wingers under the platform. My cages are arranged side-by-side with the doors facing the tailgate. I have two, but I have large dogs. I have seen others (Harry Gooch) that has three crates facing side ways in his truck (he may also have a larger truck than mine I am not sure). This works well for me. In the summer I have a power inverter and use two deep cycle marine batteries to run fans to keep air flowing. I have side windows and a slight rise topper so there is plenty of air flowing. Heat is the issue here, but I would guess that a cover over the crates would work in the cold as well. I don’t think I have any pictures of it, but if I can find any I will post them


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## John Lash (Sep 19, 2006)

I got a drawer unit from Ainley, it is two drawers that fill the bed of the truck. You can add a water tank underneath and there are other options. Then I just added wire crates on top. Most crates are a little too tall to fit on top of the drawer unit and fit under a cab height truck cap at around 26 inches.(26 inch tall crates) My cap is 4 inches taller than a "regular." If your cap is higher that's the cheapest route. If it isn't a cheap wire crate still might fit, if not you can have Ainley make their standard crate and it will work with the drawers. The drawer unit is 12 inches tall I think.
Plenty of room, as mentioned above two crates easily fit side by side. I have seen people with custom units 3 across too.

The raised plywood would work also, and you could adjust the height to work for your crate. The drawers are more expensive and are lockable.

For ventilation A.R.E. caps (and probably others) have optional "Windoors" that open on both sides of the cap. Plenty of ventilation in the summer, the dogs crates are up high in the bed on top of the drawers. In the winter I just close everything and 2 dogs are fine.

The unit in your link looks great, it's just as well they're in England. That looks like a 4-5000 dollar unit...

John Lash


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## dixidawg (Jan 5, 2003)

I did something similar. Platform above wheel wells, then 2 wire crates above that. I got some cheap plastic bins meant for storage under a bed that fit perfectly under the platfrom. I use them for bumpers, starter pistols, radios, blinds and all kinds of assorted crap. I could take them out and fit wingers and other bigger items if needed.


I also keep a 12v deep cycle battery to run fans in the summer. It works out very well.


I could find only one picture. It's a crappy cell phone photo that sort of shows it:


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## Rudd (Jan 9, 2008)

Otter, that is exactly what I had in mind to build. I have been searching every where for what to do, thanks for posting the link.


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## Otter22 (Nov 26, 2009)

Rudd said:


> Otter, that is exactly what I had in mind to build. I have been searching every where for what to do, thanks for posting the link.


Glad I could help ya Rudd, thanks everyone else for your responses.

Thinking I'm going to look around find some water tight bins to use as "drawers" and build a platform then possible have it line-x'd to preserve it a bit better. Use "wings" on hinges in order to leave no gaps on in the bed and turn buckles to secure it. Possible use Zinger Winger crates and run RV fans off deep cycles... looking into temp. monitors now...

Hey Rudd some more ideas:

http://hubya.com/images/4ttora/bed1.jpg

http://www.bajataco.com/Camper1.html

http://www.swaygogear.com/articles/truckcamping/default.html

http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23272


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## badbullgator (Dec 20, 2004)

Ok it is a little dirty, but this is what I have. The fans are not in it right now, but I mount a power inverter under the platform and both batteries slide under as well. You can see I have three full size GU wingers in there right now. There is room on the sides of the crates to store blind poles, bumpers, heeling sticks, whatever. I don’t really have anything in there right now because I haul my ATV on a trailer and keep most of my training stuff in the box on that. 
My topper is a “slight rise” and this allows me to have taller crates and still have plenty of room over the top for air flow. I also have the full opening side windows for cross ventilation as well as being able to get inside to the sides of the crates. I have air flow on all four sides and over the top, having the raised platform helps move air as well and keeps some of the road heat from getting to the crates. The way the platform is built you can lift it out (I have not yet, but could and need to get some shotgun shells out from under it) to clean or use the truck w/o the crates. I just go to the car wash every week or two and vacuum it through the side and back windows. I usually slide the crates out first so I can climb in and get all the dog hair out. The slight rise top also makes getting the crates in and out easier. I would also get a fold down or pop out back window so you can pop it out of fold it down to clean the backside of the cab window and the back of the cab side cap window. Use PT wood, it is worth the cost. The first one of these I did I used PT 2X4’s but not the plywood decking. That was a mistake, PT does not cost that much more and pays off in the end. 
One thing I would caution you about since you mentioned cold weather. There is a warning label on the inside of my topper about not letting people rind in the back with the windows closed because of carbon monoxide. With the windows open I don’t think it is a worry, but I would wonder about keeping them closed. I don’t know much about it, just wanted to point that out. I keep my side windows fully open in the summer and use a bumper to keep part of the side window open in our “winter’.


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## Gatzby (Dec 16, 2010)

I have a wireless thermometer sending unit in my topper with the reciever in the cab. Nice knowing the boys are comfortable without having to stop. When it gets cold and I use kennel jackets I will put the sender right in one of the crates. If I can park right next to my hotel room I bring the reciever in with me.


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## BHB (Apr 28, 2008)

People are probably getting tired of seeing my ugly mug because I must've posted this about 5 times by now but here's what I do for folks out here on the west coast.








It is a custom built unit with the right side higher for a water tank and pump unit. The open drawer right behind me slides out and is big enough for 2 wingers.

BHB


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## baggr (Sep 10, 2008)

Check out Alumilene !!! Website: www.alumilene.com


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## Rob Cherry (Aug 10, 2009)

I'll try to post some pics of my set up by the end of the weekend. I insulated the camper shell with 4 inches of foam insulation in the top (most radiant heat comes from above) and 1/2 inch in the sides. I scuffed it and coated it with roll in bed liner so when I cleaned it with the pressure washer it wouldn't get the insulation wet. I have 800cfm fans and a 25 gallon water tank. The water is pressurized and gravity fed. I also have a power inverter to charge my bumper boys, collars, radios etc. on the side of my drawer system. The fans run off of a separate battery so if I run them to long my battery in the truck will still start. The power inverter is tied in to the battery in the truck. The crates are on a bed slide so I can get to the dogs for watering and easy cleaning. I've had it for a little over a year and everything works pretty good.


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## Rob Cherry (Aug 10, 2009)

Sorry everything's a little dirty, the dogs were in the water yesterday.The pics aren't in the preview so I'm not sure they are going to show up.


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## Rob Cherry (Aug 10, 2009)

Trying this again, I think I was able to reduce the file size down enough to get it to work.


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## Brutus (Oct 15, 2007)

Great looking system Rob! Might I ask how much that cost?


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## TN_LAB (Jul 26, 2008)

FinnLandR said:


> If the side windows are open is carbon monoxide an issue for a dog in the back of a truck under a topper?


Probably not. Only way of knowing about your truck would be to measure your truck. 

Might simply want to get a carbon monoxide detector and/or a couple fans.


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## Mary Shillabeer (Oct 29, 2007)

http://www.retrievertraining.net/forums/showthread.php?t=51414


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## Lee Nelson (Jan 4, 2008)

Rob Cherry said:


> I'll try to post some pics of my set up by the end of the weekend. I insulated the camper shell with 4 inches of foam insulation in the top (most radiant heat comes from above) and 1/2 inch in the sides. I scuffed it and coated it with roll in bed liner so when I cleaned it with the pressure washer it wouldn't get the insulation wet. I have 800cfm fans and a 25 gallon water tank. The water is pressurized and gravity fed. I also have a power inverter to charge my bumper boys, collars, radios etc. on the side of my drawer system. The fans run off of a separate battery so if I run them to long my battery in the truck will still start. The power inverter is tied in to the battery in the truck. The crates are on a bed slide so I can get to the dogs for watering and easy cleaning. I've had it for a little over a year and everything works pretty good.


Rob, more details on the insulation, please. Do it yourself? Brand? Any other tips? Thanks.


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## Rob Cherry (Aug 10, 2009)

I did the insulation myself. I installed it in the truck cap before I put the cap on the truck. I flipped the cap upside down so it was a little easier than being inside the truck and having to work looking up. I bought the insulation at Lowes, foam sheets, like for a walk in cooler. The sheets for the main part of the truck topper really didn't require much trimming. The 1/2 inch insulation for the sides required some trimming around the windows. I did this with a box cutter and a sharpie by making a template from the window opening and tracing it on the insulation.I then cut it out and used the same spray adhesive to attach it to the topper. I let it set for a day then taped the seams between the 1/2 inch in the sides and the 4 inch in the roof. Next was the roll in bed liner, a few coats and another day to cure and then installed the cap. Really pretty easy as projects go. The kennels, slide and drawer system was designed by me and custom fit and fabricated to my truck by Mountain Top Custom Kennels, John and Ben did a great job and were wonderful to work with. I wanted maximum ventilation for the pups so I opted to have the kennels made with all "Jail Bar Stock"


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## Rob Cherry (Aug 10, 2009)

Chet, This was a one of type of thing but I'm sure if you got in touch with Ben or John at Mountain Top they would be able to make anything you'd like. They may be able to cut the production time down after building mine and be able to save you some money by stream lining the production process. They are very friendly, accommodating and easy to work with.


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## Lee Nelson (Jan 4, 2008)

Rob Cherry said:


> I did the insulation myself. I installed it in the truck cap before I put the cap on the truck. I flipped the cap upside down so it was a little easier than being inside the truck and having to work looking up. I bought the insulation at Lowes, foam sheets, like for a walk in cooler. The sheets for the main part of the truck topper really didn't require much trimming. The 1/2 inch insulation for the sides required some trimming around the windows. I did this with a box cutter and a sharpie by making a template from the window opening and tracing it on the insulation.I then cut it out and used the same spray adhesive to attach it to the topper. I let it set for a day then taped the seams between the 1/2 inch in the sides and the 4 inch in the roof. Next was the roll in bed liner, a few coats and another day to cure and then installed the cap. Really pretty easy as projects go. The kennels, slide and drawer system was designed by me and custom fit and fabricated to my truck by Mountain Top Custom Kennels, John and Ben did a great job and were wonderful to work with. I wanted maximum ventilation for the pups so I opted to have the kennels made with all "Jail Bar Stock"


Very impressive. Thanks for the info! I see a project in my future. LOL! Which color insulation did you use and which spray adhesive? Thanks, again!


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## Rob Cherry (Aug 10, 2009)

The insulation is a foam board with an aluminum foil type sheeting on it, maybe 3 or 4 cans of that 3m spray on adhesive, I can't exactly remember and I think I used 3 quarts of the roll in bed liner. Thanks for the compliments! Feel free to contact meif you think of any other questions.
Rob


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## crystalkennels (Jul 21, 2011)

Have seen Rob's set up in person. Very nice!


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## Maysport (Nov 17, 2009)

Rob Cherry said:


> Trying this again, I think I was able to reduce the file size down enough to get it to work.


Very Sharp!

How are folks wiring their power inverters? Installing them under the hood and running the 110V wire under the truck to the bed? I guess the truck bed would have to be drilled for the wire and sealed to keep out the carbon monoxide.


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## Nate L (Jul 21, 2008)

Here's some pictures of the box I built. The design came from BHB pictures he emailed me (thanks). I can get three wingers in the slot and three wire crates on the deck. I primary designed the unit around the bottle opener in the last picture.....


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## Sabireley (Feb 2, 2005)

The bottle opener is key. I need to add one to mine.

Nice job on the box also. It looks great!


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## Scott Bass (Apr 28, 2009)

Rob has the best set up that I have seen for a truck cap set up bar none. Of course I train with Rob so I might be a little bias.


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## Jamee Strange (Jul 24, 2010)

Gatzby said:


> I have a wireless thermometer sending unit in my topper with the reciever in the cab. Nice knowing the boys are comfortable without having to stop. When it gets cold and I use kennel jackets I will put the sender right in one of the crates. If I can park right next to my hotel room I bring the reciever in with me.


where did you get something like that?


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## Chris Videtto (Nov 4, 2010)

Rob Cherry said:


> I did the insulation myself. I installed it in the truck cap before I put the cap on the truck. I flipped the cap upside down so it was a little easier than being inside the truck and having to work looking up. I bought the insulation at Lowes, foam sheets, like for a walk in cooler. The sheets for the main part of the truck topper really didn't require much trimming. The 1/2 inch insulation for the sides required some trimming around the windows. I did this with a box cutter and a sharpie by making a template from the window opening and tracing it on the insulation.I then cut it out and used the same spray adhesive to attach it to the topper. I let it set for a day then taped the seams between the 1/2 inch in the sides and the 4 inch in the roof. Next was the roll in bed liner, a few coats and another day to cure and then installed the cap. Really pretty easy as projects go. The kennels, slide and drawer system was designed by me and custom fit and fabricated to my truck by Mountain Top Custom Kennels, John and Ben did a great job and were wonderful to work with. I wanted maximum ventilation for the pups so I opted to have the kennels made with all "Jail Bar Stock"


Rob Awesome set up! I couldn't agree more with your thoughts of the guys over at MTCK! I was down there a few weeks ago to pick up my 3 hole and they were great and I really like the box!!

Chris


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