# Electronics for Homemade Wingers



## jecartag (Feb 25, 2011)

So I made a winger from Kwik's postings, but am having some problems with my electronics. I am using a bow release and a servo from R/C parts. Works perfect every time when the winger isnt loaded. Unfortunately, when the winger is loaded, there is too much tension on the caliper release for the servo to handle and I can't release my bumpers. For the last couple weeks I have been trying to mess with the set up I have to get it to work, but no luck so far. Does anybody have any suggestions/ideas or other products they would recommend?

I have heard about Elsema but have no clue on what trasmitter/receiver to use, and I have a hard time finding prices on their website.

Does anybody know if I can run a power door lock off of a 9V battery? I just dont want to have to carry around a 12V because once I get this figured out I want to build a few more.

Thank you!


----------



## KwickLabs (Jan 3, 2003)

How are you connecting the bow trigger release to the pouch?

I use actual bow string material tied to an eyebolt in the pouch. The bow release is very strong at holding a load and the *trigger is very sensitive*. If you have a small eyebolt directly being held by the trigger mechanism.......that may be the problem.


----------



## Newf (Jul 13, 2010)

you could try using a small eye or two to increase your mechanical advantage...think pulley system....


----------



## Jerry Beil (Feb 8, 2011)

Where do you get the remotes?


----------



## jecartag (Feb 25, 2011)

KwickLabs said:


> How are you connecting the bow trigger release to the pouch?
> 
> I use actual bow string material tied to an eyebolt in the pouch. The bow release is very strong at holding a load and the *trigger is very sensitive*. If you have a small eyebolt directly being held by the trigger mechanism.......that may be the problem.




Thats a good thought. I will try bowstring. I am using 1/16"" wire but will try the string to see if it works. Good idea and thank you for the suggestions.


I got the remote from a hobby store. It was actually a kit that came with a transmitter, 2 servos, battery pack, a receiver, and a switch. It is a 2-channel system and will work with 2 wingers as long as you get another receiver. The maker of the kit is Futaba. Let me know if this helps.


----------



## MooseGooser (May 11, 2003)

Remember who you is talkin to here!:razz:

But,,
If the release is like the Kwick pictured, and you really do feel that the strong tension is what is binding the release.....

If you look at Kwicks pickture, and notice the square shoulders on thr release mechanisum.
Thats a 90 degree shoulder that COULD make it hard, and require a stong force to open the fingers. That corner COULD actually be holding the release closed.

If yours is like this,, and it is requiring to open against that 90 degree or similar corner, how about trying to take a small Dremel tool, and grinding an angle on the sharp corners, so that there is not so much surface to bind the release!

Always a good idea to just take a little at a time, and then experiment to get what you want.

Gooser


----------



## MooseGooser (May 11, 2003)

P.S.

ANNNNNNNND once you decide to try what I sugested,, POLISH, POLISH POLISH the area very well.
You might just want to try this first!

Gooser


----------



## Kelly Greenwood (Dec 18, 2008)

The door lock actuator is designed to work at around 13.6-14.2 volts. This is the normal voltage of a car while running. If using a 9 volt battery I would use two and connect one negative to one positive and then modify the battery wire connector so you can connect it to the positive on one battery and negative on another. This will give you 18 volts which should solve your problem. Another option would be to go to a Radio Shack type store and buy a 8 AA battery holder and wire that up, that will give you 12 volts and a bit more amps.


----------



## Todd Caswell (Jun 24, 2008)

If you go to battery plus you can get really small 12 volt batterys, there about 2 inches by 4 inches. Rechargable with a small plug in charger same one that is used on a "Vexlar ice fishing rig". Using a 9 volt or AA battery holder would seem like a pain, and exspensive over time...


----------



## jecartag (Feb 25, 2011)

Just wanted to say thank you for everybody's suggestions and help. I ended up goin to the junkyard and pulled a couple power door lock actuators and it worked. I will try and get a pic posted if anybody is interested and wants to build their own. 

Again, I really do appreciate everybodys help.

And...

Gooser, you had an awesome idea and I tried it. I also polished to try and create less friction. However, I had a poor design with a 90 degree turn that I believe made it more difficult on the servo. Anyways, thanks for the advice!


----------



## Happy Gilmore (Feb 29, 2008)

hmmm, gives me an idea or two for a remote potato gun......


----------



## jecartag (Feb 25, 2011)

Here is a picture of what I came up with. I may have done more than I actually needed but it works and thats what matters. In the pic you ill see a gap between the momentary switch and the power door lock actuator. I am going to put another switch in between those two parts and connect the Piezo mini siren from radioshack to it so I can have an alarm. The servo moves in two directions, therefore, you can run one channel function per servo. Turn the R/C transmitter wheel forward to move the servo one way, and then turn it back to move the servo in the opposite direction. This will allow two momentary switches to be set off independently.

I hope this helps somebody!
Thanks again for everybodys help!


Sorry if I didnt add pictures the right way. I couldnt figure out how to do it through the "Insert Image" button, so had to add as attachments.

And for the record....I do not take credit for any of this. The final product came from a collection of suggestions from many people! What I tried to do on my own didnt work!


----------



## 43x (Mar 29, 2009)

I like the receiver and battery in a can


----------



## bob vetter (Apr 1, 2006)

Nice work !


----------



## jecartag (Feb 25, 2011)

I felt like I should report back....finally, I think I figured out a decent design for the homemade winger and electronics. As I said last year, I used Kiwks design for the frame...it is great, sturdy, lightweight, and folds up very nice. I went to a Scuba Store and bought the latex tubing for the bands. I used a ZingerWinger pouch and Hardware from menards (pulleys, etc). I also used a bow release with a power door lock actuator. Also, I use the piezo mini siren (9V) from Radioshack for the attention getting device. 

The electronics are from CaryMart.com. I bought the 6 channel transmitter that came with 6 receivers. They program the setting and label the receivers, so all you have to do is "plug and play". The transmitter and receivers all each run off 9V battery. I have put them through quite a bit of use and havent had a problem with the original battery yet.

http://www.carymart.com/index.php?m...ducts_id=151&zenid=cdgrtle3o4ab0j5f0ctd4qqk27 (unfortunately, these are made in china)

One problem I have is that I cant hear the mini siren from from my max launch distance which is about 115 yards. The ideal launch distance from the company says it is 300 meters. However, I may not have the receiver set up in my box to utilize the maximum distance, either. Also, you have the option to purchase an antenna for the receivers....I goofed up and only bought one receiver with an antenna, so I havent used that one yet (I only have 2 built...I plan on building the 3rd soon).

So, each winger has 2 receiver...one functions to pull the power door lock actuator (I got from a Junkyard from Ford Explorer), and the other receiver operates the mini siren.

I do not currently have pictures, but can post them or email them for those interested!

Hopefully this helps somebody! And thanks to Kwik and all the others who have helped me finalizing the winger!


----------



## jecartag (Feb 25, 2011)

So this is my best shot at adding photos of my winger electronics...not sure how it will turn out....


----------



## jecartag (Feb 25, 2011)

And the last one...looks like it worked! I hope this helps somebody and let me know if you have any questions...my PM is almost full but feel free to PM...I will try and clear some space tonight but not sure if I will get the chance. I will check the forum...good luck!










Again...I am not taking credit for ANY of this! The idea came from tips from many people! Also, I used Kwik's design, which is GREAT! Nice work from everybody! Much appreciated!



Also, here is the website for the transmitter/recerive package I used
http://www.carymart.com/index.php?m...ducts_id=151&zenid=1su16ukcpsrs6mutifkk2221v6

And here is the URL for the Piezo mini siren...I would recommend that you be sure you have the high intensity siren...mine are not and they can be tough to hear if you are about 100 yards out and training where there is alot of noise "in the background"
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062405

Radioshack project box...
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062284

Switches
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3097458

9V Battery Clips
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062220

9V Battery power wires
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062218

TruFire Patriot Jr Caliper Release (ebay...this one is $22 with shipping; I found them as cheap as $12.00 before...keep an eye out!)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-TRU-FIR...817?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53ebc68639

Power Door Lock Actuator - There are cheaper ones than this out ther ($5). The ones I used came from a Ford Explorer. I went to the junk yard and paid $1 a piece (had to take them out myself though..not too difficult!)
http://www.amazon.com/HIGH-POWER-DOOR-LOCK-ACTUATOR/dp/B0002KR9PW

Stumbled upon this website as I was searching...didnt spend time looking into it but it may help somebody with "pull" function for winger electronics
http://www.kocomotionus.com/products/linear-actuators.html


I think that just about does it...let me know if ya got questions!


----------



## dmccarty (Jul 9, 2004)

How do the carymart electronics compare to the Elsema? 

My Elsema electronics are still working good and it's been about 6 years now. But I have to think of their eventual replacement, as I am sure they won't last forever.


----------



## jecartag (Feb 25, 2011)

Im not sure on that one...I have never used Elsema electronics. I called their company last year when I was really looking hard for a good setup because I heard quite a bit of good things about them...they told me they didnt really sell what I was looking for anymore...however, I may have dont a horrible job explaining the type of product I needed. the CaryMarts I am using have only been up and running for a few weeks...so far no problems, but I havent had them long enough to say for sure, either


----------



## robbiecox (Nov 30, 2011)

Does anyone have a website for a servo that would work to push the rrt to fire like the following youtube video?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=einY6g53jqk

I am looking into making one like this, but need some help with the servo. I am going to try and use the carymart.com electronics like jecartag. But, I am not sure how on the youtube video he pushes a button and it actuates the servo and them the servo goes back to the home position. I understand how it would do it on a remote control car steering, but not with just the push of a button to turn it and letting off the button returns it to the home position.


----------



## jecartag (Feb 25, 2011)

I dont have an answer for ya right now on the servo. I dont know too much about them and have only really dealt with servos one time (the first time I attempted electronics which was last year).

However, I do know that the receivers have 3 control modes...latched, momentary, and toggle. This means you can program it (real easy...I was able to do it! You just use the transmitter to do this and the instructions on doing this are included) to adjust to your function. I would imagine that if you have the proper setting the servo arm would return back to resting position. I know it did on my RC car when I used it.

For instance...the receivers came in the mail, they were all programmed for the latched mode. This meant that when I pushed the button, the door actuator would do it pull function, but instead of pulling and returning back to resting, it would keep pulling. So, in order to relieve the pull function, you would have to push the buttom again to turn it "off". But, I switched to a different mode (cant remember the difference between momentary and toggle, but I used one of them, ha ha) so now when I push the button once, the door actuator pulls and then returns to normal position. Hope this helps and hopefully somebody can help you out with the servos. This would be my best shot, but like I said, I dont know too much about them...Good luck!

http://evilmadscience.com/productsmenu/partsmenu/173-servo

This servo may be too small for what you want to use it for...but just thought I'd try!


----------



## ateupwithquack (Feb 24, 2012)

I've built a launcher for my 2" avery hexabumpers that uses the carymart electronics. I got the 12 channel reciever/transmitter with antenna. I have used it out to 200yds with no problem(they claim 500yds). My launcher can hold 3 bumpers, I used door actuators as well. Mine is a catapult(sp) design and only launches the bumpers 15-20ft and around 10' high. I also put a piezo buzzer. In the end I will have 3 of these using all 12 channels and will be able to launch 9 different bumpers.


----------



## robbiecox (Nov 30, 2011)

Well, it took me a couple weeks to get all my parts in, but take a look and see what you think...

http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj630/robbiecox2/ElectronicsforBumperLauncher.jpg

http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj630/robbiecox2/Launchers.jpg

http://i1271.photobucket.com/albums/jj630/robbiecox2/Solenoid.jpg

I had a couple issues with the batteries falling out when I launched, and the battery wires disconnecting when I launched. That is why the battery pack is all taped up. Those launchers throw a jolt when they fire.


----------



## ssramage (Oct 11, 2011)

Does anyone know which of the carrymart receivers/transmitters it is with the antenna? Looking back through this thread it looks like the product has changed slightly so I just want to make sure before I order. Thanks.


----------



## Joel907 (Aug 17, 2012)

I use a 9 volt battery to activate the servo 
i allso use the youth release with the trigger that looks like a firearm
trigger I just drill a hole in it at the top.


----------



## bird barrel (Jan 31, 2013)

hey guy having some problems with my electronics bought the cary mart 12 channel remote and 6 two channel rec ever things works fine and is hooked up to 12 volt batt . the problem is that my door actuator are over heating and burning out . what can this be from to much batt or do in need to add something to my wiring to help prevent this


----------



## ateupwithquack (Feb 24, 2012)

bird barrel said:


> hey guy having some problems with my electronics bought the cary mart 12 channel remote and 6 two channel rec ever things works fine and is hooked up to 12 volt batt . the problem is that my door actuator are over heating and burning out . what can this be from to much batt or do in need to add something to my wiring to help prevent this


Are you using a car battery? Sounds like maybe bad connections, are you using your electronics as latching or momentary also? If latched the continuous power may be too much, actuators are used as pulsed.


----------



## blake_mhoona (Mar 19, 2012)

still waiting on my electronics but it sounds like you have the receivers in latched or toggle (press buttong and it doesnt quit pulling until you let off button/press button and it keeps pulling till you press again.). they need to be in momentary (press button and it pulls and lets go instantly.

the battery could also be the cause. i'm using a 12 volt 1.4 mAh and i havent had any problems using the battery in the yard (sans electronics)


----------



## bird barrel (Jan 31, 2013)

the batt i am using is a 12volt 5.0mah bought from home depot it was used for fire signs


----------



## ateupwithquack (Feb 24, 2012)

It definitely sounds like they are latched, 12 volts is 12 volts, AH is simply how long the battery will run. I bulit my launchers using actuators and dont fight this problem


----------



## jecartag (Feb 25, 2011)

If you bought the three finction receivers (momentary-latched-toggle), refer back to the insert that carymart sent you woth the receivers. If you cant find it, let me know, and i will search for mine. As they said above, you need to be on momentary mode. The battery shouldnt b the problem. What size wires are you using? Are they all the same size or smaller? I doubt that is a problem, but keep that in the back of your mind if you are already set on momentary mode.


----------



## ateupwithquack (Feb 24, 2012)

jecartag said:


> If you bouth the three finction receivers (momentary-latched-toggle), refer back to the insert that carymart sent you woth the receivers. If you cant find it, let me know, and i will search for mine. As they said above, you need to be on momentary mode. The battery shouldnt b the problem. What size wires are you using? Are they all the same size or smaller? I doubt that is a problem, but keep that in the back of your mind if you are already set on momentary mode.


I have mine handy in my shop, I can reference it when I get home if needed. For wire to be the problem, it would have to be probably 18 gauge or smaller.


----------



## Duckslapper (Oct 12, 2012)

Jecartag - Could you throw another link up to the Carymart transmitter and receiver you used? The link you posted in 2012 takes me to a "product no longer available page." I've been working on building a pair of wingers but used walkie-talkies for the electronics and i can't get any consistency out of them. Thanks!


----------



## blake_mhoona (Mar 19, 2012)

for one to many (meaning you plan on having more than one receiver) and 2 channels (1 channel for speaker 1 channel for actuator)

http://www.carymart.com/2-relay-dc-...er-receiver-for-one-to-many-serie-p-1392.html

just bought mine it takes 10-20 days of shipping just FWIW. i'm on day 11 now still waiting. i went with the 8 button transmitter (4 wingers 2 channels each) and magnetic antennas

http://www.carymart.com/8-button-1000m-wireless-remote-control-transmitter-p-227.html

if you are just going to have 1 receiver and multiple channels (like a 4 channel 1 receiver bumper boy 4 shooter) you'd get this

http://www.carymart.com/dc-4-channe...-rf-controller-mixed-working-modes-p-204.html


----------



## jecartag (Feb 25, 2011)

Blake is spot-on...I agree 100%. 

For future reference, in case CaryMart decides to change the form in which they sell these receivers or change the exact web address for this specific receiver, the product code below is for the 2-channel receiver (multiple series possible). Just copy and paste in the search bar on Carymart.com.

0020410

Hope this Helps. Dont hesitate if you have more questions!


----------



## bird barrel (Jan 31, 2013)

can you explain lacthed . is their a setting on my rec that i can change the only thing that i cna see is a black peace that goes over to metal post and their are to post not covered


----------



## jecartag (Feb 25, 2011)

Latched means when you push the button on the transmitter for the appropriate receiver, the receiver sends power to the power door lock actuator and maintains this power. In order to turn the actuator off, you have to push the button again. So, for instance, if you have button #1 on your transmitter controlling winger 1, and you want to launch a bumper from winger one, it goes something like this "push button 1 - power goes to actuator, releases caliper and bumper is tossed - push button 1 again - power is shut off to actuator" Basically, if you push Button 1, your actuator maintains is PULL function until you push button 1 again. If you do not push button 1, the actuator will continuously be in the PULL state.

Momentary is the function you want to be using. Momentary mode is just that...you push button one, and power is momentarily supplied to the actuator. Your series is then something like this "push button 1 - actuator gets power for a split second and performs a pull function - power is shut off to actuator through receiver - actuator arm returns to neutral position" Notice, you do NOT need to push button 1 more than one time. Does this help? I will go look for my instructions right now...


----------



## blake_mhoona (Mar 19, 2012)

blake_mhoona said:


> still waiting on my electronics but it sounds like you have the *receivers in latched or toggle (press button and it doesnt quit pulling until you let off button/press button and it keeps pulling till you press again.)*. they need to be in *momentary (press button and it pulls and lets go instantly.
> *


bird barrell this was earlier


----------



## SjSmith (Oct 25, 2011)

Are you using the 315 or 433 Mhz or does it matter? And what's the magnetic antenna? Is it a remotely wired antenna for the receiver?


----------



## Duckslapper (Oct 12, 2012)

Thanks, Blake. Did you get the 9V or 12V power supply?


----------



## jecartag (Feb 25, 2011)

Here are the instructions for changing the mode that I was sent by carymart. I figured out the reason that nobody can get to the website I posted earlier for the CaryMart receivers is because they must have updated them. I emailed CaryMart about a month ago to get the part number for the appropriate receiver (I explained my purpose), and that is how I came up with the part number for the current model in the above post. Hopefully the programming is still the same. If not, let us know and maybe somebody with a similar model number can help you out. Here is what came with my receivers....


----------



## SjSmith (Oct 25, 2011)

Jeremy, are you getting a 9v battery to operate the actuator sufficiently?


----------



## jecartag (Feb 25, 2011)

Lets hear some opinions on those guys that are using the 12V system. I will be quite honest; I went with the 9V system because I figured 9V batteries were smaller, lighter weight, and just seemed more convenient. However, they wear out pretty quickly, and since I did not buy the rechargable ones, it is becoming quite expensive. I get about 2 days worth of hard training out of them, and then they need replaced. I will likely get the lithium ion rechargables in teh near future, and will update everybody once I do. In hindsight, it seems to me like the 12V system may have been a better idea...

Straight-Gut- I am getting a 9V battery to operate the actuator sufficiently. I actually am running (2) 9 V batteries in parallel with the actuator. I can get a single battery to work the operator pretty well, but lasts even shorter amount of time. If you havent invested in the 9V system, I would wait to hear some feedback on the 12V system. If you have already invested in the 9V, it may be a good idea to use rechargables...hope this helps.


----------



## blake_mhoona (Mar 19, 2012)

i got the 9 but then i realized that the actuators are rated for up to 12 and i wanted to be able to run my receiver, speaker, and actuator off one batter without it draining so i sent an email and had them change it to 12V

i'm using the 315Mhz for the wingers. it doesnt really matter. next time when i build my launcher's i'll go with the 433 since i'm likely to be using them at the same time. if you have any buddies with the same setup make sure you dont use the same Mhz. its like when my dad flew RC planes you went over to the cupboard at the airport and grabbed a chip with the frequency on it that no one was using that way someone else didnt have control of your plane.


----------



## SjSmith (Oct 25, 2011)

Roughly how much are ya gonna have in four wingers w/ elect. and sound?


----------



## jecartag (Feb 25, 2011)

blake_mhoona said:


> i'm using the 315Mhz for the wingers. it doesnt really matter. next time when i build my launcher's i'll go with the 433 since i'm likely to be using them at the same time. if you have any buddies with the same setup make sure you dont use the same Mhz. its like when my dad flew RC planes you went over to the cupboard at the airport and grabbed a chip with the frequency on it that no one was using that way someone else didnt have control of your plane.


haha, talk about a marking test!


----------



## jecartag (Feb 25, 2011)

Straight-Gut: I recently made a set of wingers for a buddy; I have a generic price list saved on my computer. I made a set of 3 wingers, and the cost per winger came out to be APPROXIMATELY $175. I did some very rough rounding, but I would suspect that this would be very close to the actual cost. This included the cost of the electronics and the Piezo siren from radioshack. 


Speaking of sirens, has anybody used something like this with any luck? The peizo siren I am using is nice for younger dogs at close marks, but it seems like once I get outside of 40 or 50 yards, I cant hear it.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=267-7054&utm


----------



## SjSmith (Oct 25, 2011)

Thanks Jeremy, I read Kwicks thread about these a while back and your recent posts got me back on the task.
Gonna try and order the electronics part for 4 and get to buildin.


----------



## blake_mhoona (Mar 19, 2012)

STRAIGHT-GUT said:


> Roughly how much are ya gonna have in four wingers w/ elect. and sound?


if you dont have any kind of hardware stockpile (pvc, nuts, bolts, zip ties, etc) on hand like i didnt then around $600-650

electronics 180
pouches and rubbers 200
actuators, bow release 75
pvc, hardware, zip ties 150-200

but considering i just saw 4 used ones plus electronics for 1825 then i think i came out ahead. especially when you look at new prices.


i would reccomend only attempting this if you have access to major power tools. i went to my dad's house and we had to use his band saw, mitor saw, belt grinder, drill press, and his foot pedaled dental drill (he uses it for jewelry work). we used kendell stefensen's design


----------



## SjSmith (Oct 25, 2011)

blake_mhoona said:


> if you dont have any kind of hardware stockpile (pvc, nuts, bolts, zip ties, etc) on hand like i didnt then around $600-650
> 
> electronics 180
> pouches and rubbers 200
> ...


Not familiar with that design but I'm assuming you made them out of steel or aluminum and not pvc.


----------



## jecartag (Feb 25, 2011)

Straight-Gut: No problem, glad to help. 

To follow up with Blake's last comment...sounds like he did a much better job than I did. I used two power tools: a jig-saw and a power drill. My wingers are probably not as precisely built as blakes, but I have not had any problems with them. 

My winger frame design is very similar to Mr. Boyer's, aka, KwikLabs, and all the credit goes to him!

I used 1/2" PVC for main frame...was unsure about its sturdiness, but it has held up just fine. I have also seen the frame made out of 1/2" conduit. Be creative with what you have, and do waht you have to do to make it work! 

Good luck, and let us know if you run into any problems. This forum is full of people who are way smarter than I am, but I will help you out with what I can!

Here is a picture of a winger I found made out of EMT conduit. I have had this saved to my computer for a few years now, and did not build this myself. I dont remember where it came from, but could be another idea for those who have experience bending EMT.


----------



## blake_mhoona (Mar 19, 2012)

STRAIGHT-GUT said:


> Not familiar with that design but I'm assuming you made them out of steel or aluminum and not pvc.


no used pvc. kendell's design

http://www.retrievertraining.net/fo...res-and-information&highlight=homemade+winger

the band saw was to cut the bushings in half. we felt more comfotable cutting a small fitting with a less RPM saw than the mitor. the mitor was used for cutting dimensional pvc. we also used the band saw to cut the metal rod for the primer assembly. belt gsander was to grind off these little ridges on the fittings that kept them from sliding in the 1" T's (see thread above for applicational purposes). also used belt sander to grind metal bar to a point for primer assembly. drill press to drill straight hole through pvc for bow release, actuator, hooks and metal rod for primer assembly. foot pedaled dental drill to drill tiny little hole through bow release trigger to tie fishing line too (that plastic is hard to drill through!)

i will say these might not be required tools but it sure sped up the process we went from the first one in 2 hours to the next 3 we were cranking out in 35 minutes or less


----------



## bird barrel (Jan 31, 2013)

ok thank you . when i rec my electronics in the mail i just opened the up and started wiring like the example 1 shows was i susposed to rest the rec to mometary like it says in the dircretions .thank you again i have no idea what i am doing when it come to electronics. i uselly just throw away any thing with directions. lol


----------



## James Wick (Nov 17, 2012)

Has anyone tried using a Duck Sound board in place of the Piezo Siren?

ex. Qkits FK254 PCB Duck Sound Board


----------



## SjSmith (Oct 25, 2011)

James Wick said:


> Has anyone tried using a Duck Sound board in place of the Piezo Siren?
> 
> ex. Qkits FK254 PCB Duck Sound Board


I might try those for that price. Wonder how loud it is?


----------



## SjSmith (Oct 25, 2011)

blake_mhoona said:


> no used pvc. kendell's design


Just to give credit where it is due, that is Kwick's design.


----------



## blake_mhoona (Mar 19, 2012)

i wasnt even going to put the speaker except my Mon.-Fri. training grounds is in the city and i cant pop off a 209 shot so thats what the speaker is for just to get him looking that way. i dont really care what sound it makes. although i wouldnt mind having a tritronics buzzer sound instead of an alarm

the HRC guys may want that though.

oh i knew it was kwik's design except the difference is that kendell used this rotating bushing and made his bigger. i'm pretty sure all homemade pvc winger's are based on kwik's design. this is just kendell's version of kwik's.


----------



## Tom. P. (Oct 20, 2010)

Great information Jeremy! You have put alot of time on here helping people.
BTW.. Great picture of Scout watching those birds!


----------



## bird barrel (Jan 31, 2013)

jeremy thanks for all your help i see your kankakee river hrc member.i belong to the saint clair flats hrc and all i hear is how good of hunt test your club puts on hope i can make one this year if not next year for sure


----------



## jecartag (Feb 25, 2011)

Tom P - Thanks! It was made by Mr. Todd Caswell! Very nice of him to do that for me!

Bird Barrel - You are welcome. Any time! Dont hesitate to ask if there is something I may be able to help with. I have only been with KR HRC for a couple years and have been nothing but impressed. Couldnt say enough good things about the club and the guys in it. Alot of nice people with a lot of nice dogs! My hunt test experience is limited, but I do know that at the last 4 hunt tests I have been a part of with HRC, a lot of work is put in (as I am sure that is the case at most places). Hope to see you in the near future!


----------



## ateupwithquack (Feb 24, 2012)

Heres mine, i throw bumpers but think it could throw a teal 5 ish yds. I like that i can throw 3 or however many you design it for. It'll throw a bumper 10-15 yds long and 15ft high depending on placement. Peizo mounted to jbox, only negative is I need a car battery to weigh it down to keep from shaking bumpers off the arms. I built 2 of these, used them for 2 weeks then got a sweet deal on 4 max 5000s. Id sell them if antyone was interested.


----------



## jecartag (Feb 25, 2011)

ateupwithquack said:


> Heres mine, i throw bumpers but think it could throw a teal 5 ish yds. I like that i can throw 3 or however many you design it for. It'll throw a bumper 10-15 yds long and 15ft high depending on placement. Peizo mounted to jbox, only negative is I need a car battery to weigh it down to keep from shaking bumpers off the arms. I built 2 of these, used them for 2 weeks then got a sweet deal on 4 max 5000s. Id sell them if antyone was interested.


those are sweet. nice work! Have you thrown Dokkens in them?


----------



## ateupwithquack (Feb 24, 2012)

jecartag said:


> those are sweet. nice work! Have you thrown Dokkens in them?


Nope, never thought about it, dokkens teal would be perfect


----------



## jecartag (Feb 25, 2011)

Not sure if anybody else out there is using the 9V receiver system from carymart or not. The 12V appears to be the way to go. I currently have the 9V system and wa having a heck of a time with battery life (as you can imagine), etc, because eeverything was running off of 2 9V batteries. So, I changed thigns around yesterday and thought I would throw the idea around to the group in case anybody else is having the same issue.

I am powering ONLY the receiver off of a 9V battery. I added in a 12V rechargable battery to power the power door lock actuator and siren. I will try and post a diagram if anybody is interested sometime later in the week.


http://www.batteriesplus.com/produc...ot187-Terminal-DASH--DASH-WKA12--1-dot3F.aspx


----------



## James Wick (Nov 17, 2012)

I have used a 12v Tritronic replacemewnt battery with the receiver---- small, light weight cost approx $17 on the WEB.

I also have found that using bow string with the release work much better than wire or carabiners.


----------



## NateB (Sep 25, 2003)

ateupwithquack said:


> Heres mine, i throw bumpers but think it could throw a teal 5 ish yds. I like that i can throw 3 or however many you design it for. It'll throw a bumper 10-15 yds long and 15ft high depending on placement. Peizo mounted to jbox, only negative is I need a car battery to weigh it down to keep from shaking bumpers off the arms. I built 2 of these, used them for 2 weeks then got a sweet deal on 4 max 5000s. Id sell them if antyone was interested.


Oooh that picture makes my nose hurt!! I was trying to develop that same idea a few years ago for a multiple duck thrower, the idea came to me as I was watching a video on a pitching machine. As I was building the model I was using wood, and using heavy amounts of surgical tubing for the power. Had so much pressure on it that one of the screws backed out as I was leaning over it, gave away and smacked me straight in the nose. My ENT told me it was the worst nasal bone fracture he had ever seen. Had a hard time explaining how I broke my nose trying to make a duck thrower. Think I leave the heavy engineering to the people with DEGREES!!!


----------



## richardson08 (May 22, 2013)

does anyone have the diemesions on the homemade winger and a parts list


----------



## tjleitch (Jul 14, 2014)

i like these ideal but does anyone just use the servo to release the bow release?


----------



## tjleitch (Jul 14, 2014)

can you get a remote and transmitter at radio shack?


----------



## pintailkilla (Apr 28, 2011)

I bought a 12 channel reciever with transmitter on e-bay for $18.79 free shipping from China, took 14 days to get here , but works great, have used it out to 150 yards so far .


----------



## Misty Marsh (Aug 1, 2003)

Thinking about brining in Elsema stuff again. I closed the business a few years ago, but still have the account and they have a 4-8 channel transmitter that will work reliably to 266 yards and a weatherproof receiver that is compatible. I will look into the costs, may be a great solution, or it may be too expensive to make sense in the DIY world. Will let you guy's know.


----------

