# SUDDENLY 6 month old BLM resource guarding...



## Labs R Us (Jun 25, 2010)

About two weeks ago, Henry suddenly began to show possessive aggression. I was totally blown away by this behavior as he has been the sweetest and easiest pup I've ever had and was a breeze to house train and crate train. His obedience is really good and I abide by the rule that "nothing in life is free". He has been CC'd to "here" as he had a tendency to go and visit the gunner rather than return to me. He has also been doing well with the "hold" and I'm about ready to start FF.

His aggressive behavior first showed up a couple weeks ago when he grabbed a scarf off the floor. Normally, I could go right up to him and say "out" and he would drop the object. Not this time, he took off running and when I was able to catch him, his body became stiff and he started growling and snarling at me. I was able to get the scarf away from him by just waiting him out. Last Sunday was the worst incident thus far. I tried to get a toy away from him by telling him to "sit" and "out". I took a hold of his collar and he proceeded to bite my hands, arms, and leg. I was prepared and wore leather gloves, so luckily only ended up with some really ugly bruises.

I am so surprised by his sudden aggression as he is a very happy and social puppy with people and dogs. I just have no idea where this aggression came from. I get conflicting suggestions from people such as to pin him down until he submits or trade him his guarded object for a food treat. 

I had really hoped Henry would be my first MH but with aggression rearing its ugly head, I'm not so sure any more. Can this behavior be corrected? (I have to admit that I am now nervous about taking any object away from him.)

I am really upset about this so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


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## JusticeDog (Jul 3, 2003)

I start with the simple nice approach, and if that diesn't work, you need to sit on him figuratively. If you are donning leather gloves, get a large wiffle ball bat and state no, very firmly and hit the floor around him. Get a copy if the book ruff love. He gets no priviledges until he earns them and you sre the keeper of the fun. Otherwise send him to me or Sharon Potter for a couple of months to make a good citizen out of. At this point, If he growled at me i'd punch him in the nose. He really is testing you, and right now you are losing. If you can't make a difference with positivethe training like I suggested to you, you're going to have to go for the aggressive approach but in a big way.


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## M&K's Retrievers (May 31, 2009)

I believe I'd take him to the ground.


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## kcrumpy9 (Sep 29, 2008)

I would NOT give him food for this behavior. This will teach him that growling will get him a higher value reward. 

A few questions: Does he do this in a certain area of the house? Does he do it while training? 

First thing, go back and visit "Drop it", "Leave it", "Take it". Make sure he understands everything is yours and he can only have it if you say so and you can take it away just as easily. If he growls over a possession take the object away and place him in a crate or kennel for a few moments. Release him only when he's settled down and listening. You're teaching him that if he acts inappropriately he not only loses the object that he desires but also his freedom. He should quickly change his tune. Also, NO chew bones or toys around anyone or thing until this problem is cured.


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## truthseeker (Feb 2, 2012)

This subject has come up before and with varying answers. So my advise to you is. 

If you are the pack leader, act like one.

Keith


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## Bruce MacPherson (Mar 7, 2005)

JusticeDog said:


> I start with the simple nice approach, and if that diesn't work, you need to sit on him figuratively. If you are donning leather gloves, get a large wiffle ball bat and state no, very firmly and hit the floor around him. Get a copy if the book ruff love. He gets no priviledges until he earns them and you sre the keeper of the fun. Otherwise send him to me or Sharon Potter for a couple of months to make a good citizen out of. At this point, If he growled at me i'd punch him in the nose. He really is testing you, and right now you are losing. If you can't make a difference with positivethe training like I suggested to you, you're going to have to go for the aggressive approach but in a big way.


Absolutely 100% right on the money and the sooner the quicker.


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## Henlee (Feb 10, 2013)

I agree with Justicedog also. Incidentally your dog is also at the puberty age and may be why this is starting now. If you were not going to breed him, maybe it is time to have him fixed. British training for American Labradors by Vic Barlow also had suggestions on behaviors to establish your leader status.


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## Mary Lynn Metras (Jul 6, 2010)

JusticeDog said:


> I start with the simple nice approach, and if that diesn't work, you need to sit on him figuratively. If you are donning leather gloves, get a large wiffle ball bat and state no, very firmly and hit the floor around him. Get a copy if the book ruff love. He gets no priviledges until he earns them and you sre the keeper of the fun. Otherwise send him to me or Sharon Potter for a couple of months to make a good citizen out of. At this point, If he growled at me i'd punch him in the nose. He really is testing you, and right now you are losing. If you can't make a difference with positivethe training like I suggested to you, you're going to have to go for the aggressive approach but in a big way.


Although I have not run into this problem, I like your answer Susan. You have to be firm with them so they do not get away with anything. Good luck! Let us know how you make out. Puppies always test the limits!IMO


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## DoubleHaul (Jul 22, 2008)

Someone posted on here in a different thread (in jest I think) "Put him on his back and hump him until he pees himself" One of my favorites 

I would just toss out that any sudden behavior change could be physical. Often these changes are not as sudden as we think, but if it were my dog I would at least get a thyroid panel run.


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## sixpacklabs (Jan 21, 2009)

Before you implement any approach to address what you've labeled a resource guarding issue, I'd strongly suggest you do two things: (1) As DoubleHaul suggested, whenever a dog has a sudden behavioral change, it's worth looking into whether some physical or health issue might be involved. (2) PLEASE read this post on Patricia McConnell's blog about resource guarding treatment and prevention: http://www.patriciamcconnell.com/theotherendoftheleash/resource-guarding-treatment-and-prevention

If you're not familiar with Patricia McConnell, you can find more information about her here: http://www.patriciamcconnell.com/about-patricia. Her books and blog are wonderful reading. Her dissertation research was on communication between sheep herders and their dogs, she's a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist with many years in private practice (including working with 100s if not 1,000s of dogs with resource guarding issues), is well versed in current scientific literature on dog behavior and learning, has bred border collies and trained them for herding, and above all, is thoughtful and not dogmatic about all things dog. If I had a dog with a behavioral issue, her work is the first place I'd go to begin to seek guidance. Like you, she lives in Wisconsin. I don't think she's in private practice any longer, but the business she founded is still alive and well and could be a great place to seek a consultation if you think that's appropriate: http://www.dogsbestfriendtraining.com.

Good luck with your pup.


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## Mary Lynn Metras (Jul 6, 2010)

sixpacklabs said:


> Before you implement any approach to address what you've labeled a resource guarding issue, I'd strongly suggest you do two things: (1) As DoubleHaul suggested, whenever a dog has a sudden behavioral change, it's worth looking into whether some physical or health issue might be involved. (2) PLEASE read this post on Patricia McConnell's blog about resource guarding treatment and prevention: http://www.patriciamcconnell.com/theotherendoftheleash/resource-guarding-treatment-and-prevention
> 
> If you're not familiar with Patricia McConnell, you can find more information about her here: http://www.patriciamcconnell.com/about-patricia. Her books and blog are wonderful reading. Her dissertation research was on communication between sheep herders and their dogs, she's a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist with many years in private practice (including working with 100s if not 1,000s of dogs with resource guarding issues), is well versed in current scientific literature on dog behavior and learning, has bred border collies and trained them for herding, and above all, is thoughtful and not dogmatic about all things dog. If I had a dog with a behavioral issue, her work is the first place I'd go to begin to seek guidance. Like you, she lives in Wisconsin. I don't think she's in private practice any longer, but the business she founded is still alive and well and could be a great place to seek a consultation if you think that's appropriate: http://www.dogsbestfriendtraining.com.
> 
> Good luck with your pup.


Thanks for posting that info as well! Very interesting.


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## metalone67 (Apr 3, 2009)

Labs R Us said:


> About two weeks ago, Henry suddenly began to show possessive aggression. I was totally blown away by this behavior as he has been the sweetest and easiest pup I've ever had and was a breeze to house train and crate train. His obedience is really good and I abide by the rule that "nothing in life is free". He has been CC'd to "here" as he had a tendency to go and visit the gunner rather than return to me. He has also been doing well with the "hold" and I'm about ready to start FF.
> 
> His aggressive behavior first showed up a couple weeks ago when he grabbed a scarf off the floor. Normally, I could go right up to him and say "out" and he would drop the object. Not this time, he took off running and when I was able to catch him, his body became stiff and he started growling and snarling at me. I was able to get the scarf away from him by just waiting him out. Last Sunday was the worst incident thus far. I tried to get a toy away from him by telling him to "sit" and "out". I took a hold of his collar and he proceeded to bite my hands, arms, and leg. I was prepared and wore leather gloves, so luckily only ended up with some really ugly bruises.
> 
> ...


First off any dog of mine that tries to bite me gets lifted off the ground by their collar, they can't do anything if not on their feet, then I would proceed to take whatever it is away from them.
You are now showing signs of submission to him due to the fact you are leary to take anything away from him. He's winning and quickly.
I've been bit a few times, but I've always won in the end. 
You may want to have someone that knows what they are doing evaluate him and then leave him them.

I rule the roost and all 8 of my dogs know it, some learned the easy way and some the hard way.


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## JusticeDog (Jul 3, 2003)

Well guys, this is a six-month-old puppy, and I had suggested to Becky to try a positive training approach with him first. Things have now gone to leather gloves for Becky And getting bit, I think she needs to use a more aggressive approach with him and control of the dog. He is obviously starting puberty early. Usually i have seen this about 8 to 10 months old although not often, in some of the sweetest labs. 

Ruff Love, the book I mentioned is by Susan Garrett, an animal behaviorist. It basically puts the dog in Boot Camp unless they are exhibiting good behaviors. Being keeper of the fun is key. 

I think checking the thyroid is a good idea, but I would also just go ahead and punch him in the nose hard or lifting him off his feet as someone suggested and then put them in Boot Camp like Susan Garrett suggests. If you've got a collar on him, you can grab him by the collar and shake the living daylights out of him so that it makes him dizzy. All the while telling him no no no no no in the loudest firmest voice you can muster out of your body. 

If you do it right, you usually only have to do it once or twice. And then you never see the behavior again. When my first lab justice was about 10 months old, he growled at me while on a walk. I had to put his head into the concrete and sit on him. He was my best lab ever. Died at 17 months old of cancer. I still miss that dog.

So Becky, even the sweetest ones can have this turn and try and test you.


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## Julie R. (Jan 13, 2003)

I am not a fan of the overused and often unsuccessful alpha roll; I think it creates more problems than it fixes but as Susan and a few others suggested, grabbing the scruff or the collar and lifting the dog off its feet is a very effective "come to Jesus" technique. There are certain battles you have to win with an adolescent dog and growling or biting--for resource guarding or any other reason--is one of them. Agreed that 6 mos. is young to be already trying to intimidate the owner, but not unheard of. Behavior boot camp is in order, too. In addition to the resources already listed, google nothing in life is free. Along the same lines as other suggestions in this thread, the dog gets all privileges revoked immediately. For example, if he sleeps on your bed or is allowed on the furniture, this stops. The young delinquent goes through doors last, gets fed last, gets greeted last (if at all) when you return. It really does work as an attitude adjustment lifestyle.


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## ChessieMom (Aug 28, 2013)

I'm agreeing with Julie R. here regarding NILIF! You need to remember that it's more than just requiring a "sit" before treats or food, it's a lifestyle. For example, I do not give any attention to our 9 mos. old Chessie male, no petting, no sweet words, nothing, unless he comes and sits quietly. I also do not allow anyone else to pet him unless he is sitting quietly (no whining) though that is still a work in progress, since he is very affectionate and it's hard to control other people and he knows how to manipulate people with a smile and wagging tail, lol. 

He has no toys that are his, they are all mine. He is allowed to play with them when I give them to him, and then they are put away in a box where he cannot reach them when we are done. He is not allowed on the furniture, and is not allowed to have or chew on anything that we have not given him. He is never allowed to have anything that is our children's...ie. toys, pillows, bedding, and he is never allowed in the bedrooms without permission.

In reading your post, I'm wondering if this has been subtly going on for a longer time than you realize. Specifically, the issue with the scarf...in your mind, YOU waited him out. But because you did not deal with the problem (He took something that was not his and needed a correction)immediately, you allowed him to have it when he growled at you. He won. He taught you in a single instance, that if he growled at you, you would give in and let him have whatever it was he took.

In my experience, our Chessie (for whom it's bred right into him to resource guard), started that growling business when he found something that wasn't his that he really wanted, when he was just a few months old. His favorite were baby diapers. He would steal them out of the trash can and then run behind the couch and hide and growl at you when you would go back there to take them away. It didn't happen very often, but we had to make sure to deal with that EVERY time, immediately, because he had a LONG memory. It could be a couple of weeks before the next instance. When he was 3-4 mos. old, he got a spanking or an alpha roll at the instance, but we heavily worked obedience with lots of praise/rewards throughout that time as well. Things like "here" "fetch" and "drop" to the point that he wanted to do what he was told and get that praise or treat WAY more than he wanted anything else. 

By the time he was 6-7 mos. old and more than 65 lbs, he tried it again a couple of times. Stole a baby diaper or something and hid under the table and growled. I yelled at him and commanded him to give it to me and tried to go under the table after him, and he just growled more. Honestly, it scared me a little, because he was now big enough to do some damage. I could have fought him for the thing he wanted, but my husband and I found a different solution that worked better. I walked 10 feet away and grabbed a treat and called him to me in a happy voice. He looked at me funny, dropped the diaper, and trotted over for the treat. I picked up the diaper, told him it was mine, threw it away and put him through a mini obedience session in the kitchen. I did not trade the diaper for a treat, I moved a significant distance away from him, commanded him to come, and gave him the treat for doing what he was told and then launched into more obedience work immediately so he got the picture. It was his job to do what he was told, and if he did, he got great things, like praise and treats and toys. We also started to catch him when he picked up something and happily called him and told him to bring it to us, instead of correcting him for picking it up. We did start out being more punitive with him, but because he is pretty soft we found that with him, if we were aggressive with him, he would get even MORE aggressive back with us. so this is the solution we found that worked best and curtailed the aggressive behavior best with him. It may not work as well on your individual dog.

Occasionally, he will still steal things, but now, he will easily drop them and trot on over for some obedience work when we call him. He also started picking up miscellaneous stuff that the kids left on the floor and bringing it to us without being asked to. Now, he will find stuff the kids dropped and bring it to one of us, because he knows he will get praise and loving. I really think he might be easier to teach to clean up the house than the kids are, lol.

I'm not an expert , but in my opinion, 6 mos. is still puppyhood. It's that time when they WILL test their boundaries. You taught him he could have what he wants if he growled at you. Basically, you showed him you were scared of him and he was in charge. Since you said you put on leather gloves before you corrected him last Sunday, my guess is that you are exuding behavior all the time that tells him you are scared of him and he's in charge. You may not even realize it, but your body language is probably telling him that. Sticking to NILIF like Julie R. suggested will help you show him that you are in charge and he is not. Also, check your posture and your tone of voice, you need to be telling him that you are in charge in that way too. 

He probably needs a "come to Jesus" meeting including physical correction, and more obedience work. He also needs to be excited to do what you want when you ask him to, and the easiest way for that to happen is to make sure he has NOTHING that you have not given him. Now you need to teach him that what he gets from obeying you is WAY better than whatever it is he steals from you.


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## Labs R Us (Jun 25, 2010)

Thank you all so much for your comments. I truly appreciate it. When this behavior first appeared a couple weeks ago, it was like a switch was flipped in his personality. My first thought was a surge in testosterone. I could understand (yet not allow) if he was trying to guard a bone or meat but he is guarding his silly toys which he has had forever. The minute it happened, I knew I had to correct it immediately so it didn't progress. Before this happened, when he would steal a slipper or such, I could go up to him and tell him “out” and he would do so without a problem. I really didn’t see any signs previously of this issue. 

Since the day he came home, I have had him work for everything he wanted...getting out of his crate, going outside, being fed, getting attention. He has also never been allowed on any furniture in the house. I thought I was doing things right. 

I've done research online regarding Patricia McConnell’s and Jean Donaldson’s thoughts on this subject. I will definitely have to look up the book Ruff Love, Susan, thank you so much. McConnell and Donaldson seem to go by the theory of counter-conditioning. I tried that with a piece of hot dog and he immediately dropped the object for the food. To me, tho, this would give him the impression that he can growl and then be rewarded for it. Not too sure about that solution. When I donned my gloves on Sunday, I was prepared to take Henry on if he showed aggression when I wanted to take one of his toys. I tried to hold him down while he continued to growl, snarl, and bite. The leather gloves helped but both of my hands are quite bruised. I should have also had a heavier shirt on because my arms were bit also. I want to get this issue done and over with ASAP. 

Just as side note, his playtime with my other lab (a 6 y/o blm neutered who is a mellow fellow) seems to be getting rougher. I think he is testing both of us. Maybe picking him up by his collar and taking his feet off the ground (i.e., come to Jesus meeting) will do the trick. Just need to make sure I am fully armed. I hope that his behavior can be corrected as I know what the only alternative would be. That would be a shame as he has shown to be an awesome dog to train.


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## Pat Puwal (Dec 22, 2004)

I totally agree with Julie Reardon and Chessie Mom! Using Nothing In Life Is Free has saved a lot of dogs! It is worth a try. Not to say that the books suggested aren't good. Dr. Patricia McConnell is a favorite of mine also. Good, interesting stuff. Haven't tried Ruff Love, but sounds very good too! Check out http://k9deb.com/nilif.htm and good luck!


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## frontier (Nov 3, 2003)

The OP stated "he is doing well with the hold" which caught my attention. Normally, when you start hold, you are getting control of the dog's mouth and mind. How does the dog react to placing an object in his mouth and requiring him to hold? Did you see any aggression during your hold process? I would certainly temporarily delay force fetch until this behavior is resolved. 

Over the years, I've bought a couple of 4-5 year old intact Boykin male and Labrador males who tried growling/testing me shortly after arrival at my home. They only try it once. I do not nag.. I just settle it.


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## 2tall (Oct 11, 2006)

Terrie, that begs the question. EXACTLY how do you settle it without risking losing the battle or serious injury?


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## frontier (Nov 3, 2003)

2tall said:


> Terrie, that begs the question. EXACTLY how do you settle it without risking losing the battle or serious injury?


It depends on the dog. I've used some of the techniques and recommendations mentioned with success if the behavior warranted it (well not the urination one... yikes.) at different times for different situations.

No advice can replace a experienced trainer on site working with you observing you and your dog together.


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## wheelhorse (Nov 13, 2005)

Labs R Us said:


> I tried that with a piece of hot dog and he immediately dropped the object for the food. To me, tho, this would give him the impression that he can growl and then be rewarded for it. Not too sure about that solution.


You need to think like a dog. He did not get rewarded for growling. He got rewarded for the last behavior he gave, which was giving up the object.

I am little concerned about the route of some of these suggestions.... meet violence with more violence only if you are willing to deal with the escalation is all I've got to say.

Personally, I would try to get help with people/trainers/behaviorists that actually know how to deal with the truely horrible resource guarding dogs.


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## sixpacklabs (Jan 21, 2009)

Labs R Us said:


> Thank you all so much for your comments. I truly appreciate it. When this behavior first appeared a couple weeks ago, it was like a switch was flipped in his personality. My first thought was a surge in testosterone. I could understand (yet not allow) if he was trying to guard a bone or meat but he is guarding his silly toys which he has had forever. The minute it happened, I knew I had to correct it immediately so it didn't progress. Before this happened, when he would steal a slipper or such, I could go up to him and tell him “out” and he would do so without a problem. I really didn’t see any signs previously of this issue.
> 
> Since the day he came home, I have had him work for everything he wanted...getting out of his crate, going outside, being fed, getting attention. He has also never been allowed on any furniture in the house. I thought I was doing things right.
> 
> ...


Becky,
In response to the part of your post that I highlighted in bold, if you want to use classical conditioning, please study Patricia McConnell's blog post and the steps she outlines closely. You need to follow her instructions very carefully if you want to be successful with that approach. You begin at a point where you're far enough away from the dog that you don't induce a resource guarding response from him. The point of classical conditioning is to change the dog's emotional response to an event (you coming up to him when he's in possession of something he chooses to guard). The dog's emotional response changes because during the conditioning process he learns that your approach predicts that he's going to get something even better than what he already has.

When you use food in classical conditioning, you aren't "rewarding" a behavior like when you use it in operant conditioning, where delivering the food is a consequence of the dog choosing to perform a specific behavior. The use of food in classical conditioning is intended to help the dog learn a new set of associations and to change its emotional response to some event or stimulus. There's a good short summary of desensitization and counterconditioning here...it may or may not add anything to what you've already learned: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/virtu...avior/desensitization-and-counterconditioning

Since Susan Garrett and her book "Ruff Love" have been brought up in this thread, it's probably worth mentioning a couple of things. When her youngest dog Swagger displayed some resource guarding tendencies as a very young pup, her approach to the issue relied on the same processes that Patricia McConnell describes in her blog post, namely desensitization and classical conditioning. Two highly knowledgeable, experienced, and respected individuals in the dog training community who have a thorough understanding of the science of dog behavior and learning both chose the same approach to deal with resource guarding. Between the two of them they've worked with thousands of dogs and their owners over the years. I think they know what they're doing. 

The point of Ruff Love is for the trainer to effectively supervise the dog at all times while it's in the program. It is by managing the dog's access to reinforcement that the trainer conditions the behaviors they want in their dog. Managing access to reinforcement is particularly important when your main tool for building behaviors is positive reinforcement, which is Susan Garrett's approach. No one can supervise their dog continuously, so the dog is crated or in an ex-pen when the trainer can't directly supervise the dog. Susan Garrett also uses a crate for a number of learning games that help condition desired behaviors. Hanging a dog, shaking them, sitting on them, or any other act of aggression on the part of the trainer is absolutely antithetical to her approach to dog training.

Are you anywhere near any of the Dog's Best Friend Training locations? Having someone who is specifically trained and highly experienced in dealing with behavioral issues see you and your pup in person and coach you through the process could be a really good investment. I'd inquire specifically about experience and results with resource guarding, and find someone with plenty of experience and a strong record of success. Again, best of luck and I sincerely hope it turns out well for you and your pup.


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## ChessieMom (Aug 28, 2013)

Labs R Us said:


> I could understand (yet not allow) if he was trying to guard a bone or meat but he is guarding his silly toys which he has had forever. The minute it happened, I knew I had to correct it immediately so it didn't progress. Before this happened, when he would steal a slipper or such, I could go up to him and tell him “out” and he would do so without a problem. I really didn’t see any signs previously of this issue.
> 
> Since the day he came home, I have had him work for everything he wanted...getting out of his crate, going outside, being fed, getting attention. He has also never been allowed on any furniture in the house. I thought I was doing things right.
> 
> ...


A couple of thoughts...you mention he's guarding his toys that he's had forever. That's a clue there regarding NILIF. He should not own any toys. YOU should own all the toys for this to work. He should only be playing with them when you give them to him, for a limited time, then you should be taking them back and putting them away out of reach of him. With our Chessie, we started this at day one. We would play with a particular toy or ball, and then I would take it back and put it away and get a different toy. We worked hard on the "drop" command, and he learned from day one that none of those favorite things were really his. The same goes for food. In your case, I would probably suggest keeping his food bowl out of sight except at meal times and then removing it completely again after 15 min. so he recognizes meals are given by you and only when he obeys your commands. 

Reading your above post again, it sounds like you put gloves on to train him to give up his toys? Am I right there? I think I might go about that differently. I'm thinking I might crate him and then remove every toy he has. I might go so far as to just throw them all out and start fresh. For instance, perhaps work with him more on his drop command when he's retrieving and then make sure you put the bumper away where he cannot reach it. I might go awhile where he has no toys whatsoever. Then I would introduce a new toy (unused from the store) and play a structured game with it with him. After a few minutes, I would take the toy and put it away, and work on something else with him. I would repeat that a few times a day, always beginning with a command, then a structured game, then take it away. I would make the toy a part of training, like training him to give it to you or whatever, and then not let him ever have it outside of that situation. 

Maybe it sounds mean, but he doesn't "need" his own toys and possessions. He needs to be looking to you for every good thing he gets, and realizing that you are where all those things come from. If he is noisy in his crate, maybe it would work out to have a kong that you fill with peanut butter or whatever that he gets (only inside his crate) after he has performed a command for you. When he leaves the crate, you would then need to remove the Kong and put it away out of his reach. He wouldn't be allowed to have it unless he was inside his crate. The key here, is that when you reintroduce toys, they're for a specific reason, after he has followed a command, and for a specific time period, and you control all that. 

re: the treat for him giving up what he's guarding: I think, that if he's resource guarding something, and you grab a treat, and call him to you, and he drops the item and comes, or you command him to "drop" the item and he does, it's ok to give him the treat. I think that's the point, that you teach him to obey what you tell him to do, and that he gets good things when he does. However, if you just show up with a hot dog and try to entice him to take the hotdog without giving him a command that he's familiar with, it seems like it could be a reward for guarding the item. You need to associate the treat with him obeying a command, and make sure you practice it all the time in all situations and places.

I personally wouldn't jump to the conclusion you have a mean dog yet. 6 mos. is still a puppy...just coming into all that testosterone and figuring out his place in your world. I would be wise about training him, get even more serious with NILIF, find a trainer to talk to where you live, and maybe even talk with your vet to rule out anything. To me, it sounds like you have a dog that has a much stronger personality than you're used to, and maybe you just are realizing that now? What were his parents temperments like?


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## Hunt'EmUp (Sep 30, 2010)

He's 6 mt. old and your still bigger than him, he's trying to buffalo you, if he succeeds, you'll have much bigger problems later on. Somethings are unacceptable, growling at me is unacceptable. Unacceptable usually meets with stern reprimand. First you shouldn't be chasing him, you should be making him come to you and if he refuses you should have the methods in place to make him, lead, tab, if you have nothing else Ears are always attached. If they run, I usually follow grab them, and drag them with a correction (choker, boxed ear, etc) for a bit; then walk away a few step, give the here again, and they get the option of getting corrected again or coming, we make our way back to the spot I gave the original command. To get the object away I'd do the scruff grab/ear grab, if he snaps, he gets a no nonsense nose slap, if I need something out of his mouth, I'd squeeze a lip under his teeth and hold it there till he lets go. He's not aggressive, he just 6mts old and testing, Who is in charge? What can I get away with? Right now it seems like he's getting the wrong answers. Would you do these things with an older aggressive dog, NO-WAY you'd hire a professional whose faster than you are, but this is a 6mt old pup akin to a two year old child. Two year old children throw tantrums, are possessive, some even bite. I guess you can try to reason with them, put them on time-out but I know what worked for me as a kid.


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## Sharon Potter (Feb 29, 2004)

I agree with keeping his toys put away and you controlling which one he gets, when he gets it, and for how long. 

Also....on the very rare occasion I actually have to get physical with a dog that has tried to bite, it has to continue on until the dog shows signs of submission, not just stopping the behavior. 

I've had exactly one dog with aggression issues that weren't solvable. He was given to me by his owners because of the issue, and I had really hoped I could solve it. He was brilliant, talented, and would turn on you for no reason at all. There was no telling what would set him off. Thyroid panel was fine. He was a very nice young male with derby placements but had been going after/biting people...and while he tried really hard to bite me, he never actually got it done because I was always on high alert (although he did tear my jeans from knee to ankle once). While I could handle him, it ended up not being worth the liability, nor was it any fun to have to be totally on guard every second in case he came unglued.


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## DarrinGreene (Feb 8, 2007)

You might consider putting a choke chain and leash on him for your own safety while you seek professional help for this problem that you created.

Sounds like he kicked your butt. I dare say that if he gets away with that a couple of more times it will be very difficult to regain his respect.

Recently did the whole counter conditioning thing with an adult male Golden and it worked, to some degree at least, for the owner. If it were my dog it would have been dealt with quite differently but when I have to work with the owner watching a positive approach to such problems is called for.


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## polmaise (Jan 6, 2009)

Labs R Us said:


> About two weeks ago, Henry suddenly began to show possessive aggression. I was totally blown away by this behavior as he has been the sweetest and easiest pup I've ever had and was a breeze to house train and crate train. His obedience is really good and I abide by the rule that "nothing in life is free". He has been CC'd to "here" as he had a tendency to go and visit the gunner rather than return to me. He has also been doing well with the "hold" and I'm about ready to start FF.
> 
> His aggressive behavior first showed up a couple weeks ago when he grabbed a scarf off the floor. Normally, I could go right up to him and say "out" and he would drop the object. Not this time, he took off running and when I was able to catch him, his body became stiff and he started growling and snarling at me. I was able to get the scarf away from him by just waiting him out. Last Sunday was the worst incident thus far. I tried to get a toy away from him by telling him to "sit" and "out". I took a hold of his collar and he proceeded to bite my hands, arms, and leg. I was prepared and wore leather gloves, so luckily only ended up with some really ugly bruises.
> 
> ...


I am unlikely to offer an answer on here.
Much like any other.
I come from a background of behaviour in dogs with an upbringing in Gundogs. 
I would strenuously advise a visit to a 'bona fide' dog trainer ,other than any 'purely gundog trainer' !..nothing against 'gundog trainers'...just that I perceive the issue/problem as a behavioural issue rather than a 'gundog related issue'.


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## Labs R Us (Jun 25, 2010)

DarrinGreene said:


> You might consider putting a choke chain and leash on him for your own safety while you seek professional help for * this problem that you created*.


I really take offense to this statement.


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## BJGatley (Dec 31, 2011)

Excellent advice on above posts. 
It's like your pup is showing you that he has a pair. It's up to you to show him that you have a bigger pair and usually it just takes one incident on your side to proof that. Once started, don't let your guard down after that. It must be impulsive on your part meaning don't think about it just do. 
Good luck and I believe he will come around.


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## Julie R. (Jan 13, 2003)

Labs R Us said:


> I really take offense to this statement.


 Some dogs are just "testier" at a younger age, but you still have to deal with it in a manner that lets him know you're the one in charge. I'm sure I'm not the only one that is worried that a 6 mos. old pup bit you hard enough through gloves and on your arms, to bruise you. At this point, it doesn't matter whether you inadvertently created the behavior, or you just have a tough case, it has to be dealt with. And actually, leaving a collar with a short leash or tab on it at all times is a good idea. This way if he gets snarky with you again, you can grab the leash and make him sit or heel or if needed, yank him up off the ground. But boot camp obedience (one command, consequences for disobedience as well as praise for immediate compliance) is a very good way of redirecting and gaining control.


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## Lonnie Spann (May 14, 2012)

If you can't handle a six month old lab then you might want to get another breed, perhaps a Yorkie?

Pick Henry up by the nap of the neck and slap the **** out of him! Show him who the alpha male is. If you don't get this under control now the you have much more serious problems coming in the future. Good luck.

Lonnie Spann


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## metalone67 (Apr 3, 2009)

I have one last question, How old was this pup when you got him?


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## DarrinGreene (Feb 8, 2007)

Julie R. said:


> Some dogs are just "testier" at a younger age, but you still have to deal with it in a manner that lets him know you're the one in charge. I'm sure I'm not the only one that is worried that a 6 mos. old pup bit you hard enough through gloves and on your arms, to bruise you. At this point, it doesn't matter whether you inadvertently created the behavior, or you just have a tough case, it has to be dealt with. And actually, leaving a collar with a short leash or tab on it at all times is a good idea. This way if he gets snarky with you again, you can grab the leash and make him sit or heel or if needed, yank him up off the ground. But boot camp obedience (one command, consequences for disobedience as well as praise for immediate compliance) is a very good way of redirecting and gaining control.


Having now dealt with a couple of dozen or more of these cases in various breeds, I agree with the above and suggested a leash and a CHOKE CHAIN be in place to be used to defend yourself should he decide to test you again. The next time he comes at you expect it to be worse, potentially MUCH WORSE. Striking him, kicking him, grabbing him and all the rest will probably be ineffective and may, in fact, escalate the situation. Someone earlier mentioned meeting aggression with aggression, you better be ready for the fight. That's 100% true. Having a 6 ft lead and choke chain on the dog gives you the ability to get control from a bit of distance and make a meaningful impression without hurting him, or having him hurt you.

No one seems to want to give you details or make an impression on you about how serious this really is. Leave it to me, I guess. 

Save yourself the trip to the hospital and the dog a trip to the morgue. Fix it before he bites a kid or something.


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## ChessieMom (Aug 28, 2013)

Darrin brings up a good point. Do you use a choke chain? Having a lead and a choke chain on your dog really could make the difference in the kind of situation you're describing. 

Actually, the more I re-read your original post regarding you getting bitten on hands arms, and legs and getting ugly bruising from it, I'm thinking you may need to contact a trainer in your area and work with this one on one with him/her. It just seems like maybe you weren't reading the dog's body language correctly, and put yourself into a situation that hurt you, and potentially could've hurt you or a child VERY badly. You put on leather gloves on purpose to take a toy away from a dog who was resource guarding, and you did it in a manner that instead of gaining control immediately over the dog, you ended up hurt.

How big is this 6 mos. old dog? Have you been able to physically correct him and handle him up to this point? The more I think about it, the more it seems like a dangerous situation to try to physically correct a dog that you cannot physically stop from hurting you the way he did last time. If you contact a real life trainer, he or she will be able to show you exactly how to read your dog's body language, give you tips on your own methods of handling this dog and your own body language, and help you avoid the situation where you get bit. 

I think most of us here who have given you advice are thinking along the lines of having experience physically handling a large dog that was being snarky, and knowing what to do and how to grab, or not grab the dog etc. and not get bitten. But maybe you don't have those tools yet?

I would also advise you not to put yourself in the position you did last Sunday. Take the toys away when he doesn't have them. Do not give him toys until you can train him that they are yours and not his. 

Do NOT glove up and go into a fight with him over something he is guarding.


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## Skinny (Jul 11, 2013)

Might be wrong but if my pup ever I repeat ever tries to bite me for ANY reason I have learned to take appropriate action to insure at that very instance that biting the hand that feeds u causes severe pain and that I am the dominate person in this relationship.


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## Labs R Us (Jun 25, 2010)

Just a few comments...

Susan - If he growled at me I’d punch him in the nose. 
I did that last Sunday but that is when he grabbed my hand and bit it. Guess my reflexes aren’t as quick as they should be.

Kyle - Does he do this in a certain area of the house? Does he do it while training? 
Henry will guard in any room in the house. He has never shown any viciousness during training.

Terrie - How does the dog react to placing an object in his mouth and requiring him to hold? Did you see any aggression during your hold process? 
Henry has not objected to anything being put in his mouth. He has shown no aggression at all during the hold.

Metalone67 - I have one last question, How old was this pup when you got him? 
Henry was 7 weeks old when I got him.

Darrin - No one seems to want to give you details or make an impression on you about how serious this really is. 
I do realize how serious this is and that is why I have been researching and contacting as many people as I can for help with this issue. I am bound and determined to get it corrected now as I know what the only alternative would be.

ChessieMom - How big is this 6 mos. old dog? Have you been able to physically correct him and handle him up to this point? 
Henry is about 45 pounds right now. Up until this point, I have had no problem disciplining him.


Henry has been in boot camp since it was first suggested here on RTF. I’m going to do more reading on that but as of right now he will be given a toy with good behavior to have for a half hour or so. Should he decide to growl at me when I tell him “out”, we will have a “meeting of the minds”. I will keep you all posted. Thanks again for your comments.


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## Jennifer Henion (Jan 1, 2012)

A sincere wish for good luck to you, Becky! Please post your progress and what you decide to do. It may help others.


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## metalone67 (Apr 3, 2009)

Labs R Us said:


> Just a few comments...
> 
> Susan - If he growled at me I’d punch him in the nose.
> I did that last Sunday but that is when he grabbed that hand and bit it. Guess my reflexes aren’t as quick as they should be.
> ...


It's not a meeting of the minds, you need to have a COME TO JESUS meeting with him.


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## jwdavis (Nov 26, 2004)

I'd take him to the vet and have him examined for any physical disorders. If the vet can't find anything wrong and behavior does not improve I would look towards a more permanant solution.


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## DarrinGreene (Feb 8, 2007)

metalone67 said:


> It's not a meeting of the minds, you need to have a COME TO JESUS meeting with him.


That can be very true but there is definitely a precedent and a very good reason to also practice the counter conditioning processes that were pointed out before. I would rather not have the dog nervous when I go to take something from him, especially when he needs to go get the next mark right away.

I really would be working on both things, counter conditioning using a positive method but be prepared with the proper tools in place in case something goes wrong. That and boot camp ought to solve it for 99% of the dogs I have personally seen (a couple of dozen so far which isn't really a ton, but more than most people).


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## metalone67 (Apr 3, 2009)

DarrinGreene said:


> That can be very true but there is definitely a precedent and a very good reason to also practice the counter conditioning processes that were pointed out before. I would rather not have the dog nervous when I go to take something from him, especially when he needs to go get the next mark right away.
> 
> I really would be working on both things, counter conditioning using a positive method but be prepared with the proper tools in place in case something goes wrong. That and boot camp ought to solve it for 99% of the dogs I have personally seen (a couple of dozen so far which isn't really a ton, but more than most people).


It worked real well on my pit, there's something about you looking at them eye to eye and I'm still standing. Although not all people have that ability to do it. Some have to send dog off to bootcamp to fix the issues.


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## ChessieMom (Aug 28, 2013)

I think you may be misunderstanding what I mean when I am talking about the toys. Try reading this article : http://leerburg.com/aggresiv.htm It explains the toy situation very well when it comes to a dominant or aggressive dog.


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## Labs R Us (Jun 25, 2010)

ChessieMom, Sixpack, and Pat...Thanks for the links - Good information!


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## jwdavis (Nov 26, 2004)

What is the point in trying to put an advanced title on a gundog that has already proven itself mentally unstable? Is it so you can breed it later to "improve the breed?" Spay or neuter at least and train it as a hobby.


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## Labs R Us (Jun 25, 2010)

UPDATE: From all of your comments, I was ready for Henry if he decided to growl at me again. When he did, I picked him by the lead and shook some sense into him (along with yelling a few choice words). I then held him on the ground until he submitted. Not once during our "meeting", did he snarl, growl, or bite at me. I think I've made progress. I have since denied him free access to toys. The next day, I started working on force-fetch and he is coming along nicely.


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## starjack (Apr 30, 2009)

That a girl.............


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## truthseeker (Feb 2, 2012)

Labs R Us said:


> UPDATE: From all of your comments, I was ready for Henry if he decided to growl at me again. When he did, I picked him by the lead and shook some sense into him (along with yelling a few choice words). I then held him on the ground until he submitted. Not once during our "meeting", did he snarl, growl, or bite at me. I think I've made progress. I have since denied him free access to toys. The next day, I started working on force-fetch and he is coming along nicely.


Good for you!!

I would rather have a dominant one than one that rolls over and pees on it self.

Keith


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