# Dirt Clod Drill



## Evan (Jan 5, 2003)

This was something I wrote up in answer to someone's request. But I thought a dog training topic might be refreshing!
_____________________________________________
Dirt Clod Drill (aka Cow Chip Drill, etc.)

This valuable little drill has a number of applications depending on the need. I’ll focus on your dog in this explanation, and that is de-switching. A dog prone to switching lacks discipline about diligently hunting a fall to the extent that they will readily leave a hunt to go and hunt another fall.

Keeping in mind the age and developmental level of this dog, we’ll approach the cure on a more advanced level. That will include literally setting him up to commit the foul you have cited as habitual, and then correct it sternly for lasting effects. Bear in mind, this is something you will likely need to do a number of times, reading your dog as you go for the development of a conscience.

D.L. noted that when a dog has been given enough education about his job that he must learn a sense of obligation about doing it to be reliable. I agree with that, and this drill is designed to do that.

The first step will be to configure a set of double marks with ample suction away from the go bird. Below is a diagram of a hip pocket double with proportionate distances to give you an idea of how to set them up. Converging marks provide this type of suction, as well. I would say to set yours up so that there is no more than 50 yards between the falls.

The dynamics of the drill, as they were originally run, included having your bird boy either throw a large dirt clod or a cow chip. The object was roughly the size of a bird, and we used enough distance that they couldn’t tell the difference. But, when they got to the fall area, there was no bird. That is because we wanted them to quit the hunt, if they had that proclivity, so we could correct them for it. They would sometimes leave it instantly, finding no mark in the area.

Instruct your bird boy to be ready to slip a bird out into the fall area on your cue. This would happen when the dog left the AOF to go for another mark. You’ll make your correction, and direct your dog back into the fall area to resume the hunt. Try not to get side tracked here about “What do you do if he doesn’t hunt”. We’ll get to that.

The fall area of the go bird should be open ground. There should not be cover in the fall area adequate to hide even a pigeon. When your dog returns to the fall area, the bird will be visible, and retrieving it should be virtually automatic.

Don’t re-run it. Put him up and go run something non-mark related. Come back tomorrow and run another Dirt Clod Drill in another spot, and change the configuration slightly to have a different look for the dog.

As for when to make the correction, let me say this. First, I no longer use dirt clods or cow chips. I use the same drill dynamics, but we throw birds (ducks), and attach decoy anchor lines to both of them. The distance to the shortest fall (the go bird) is about 75-80 yards, so the bird boy has plenty of time to reel in the bird after the dog is sent. The bird boys retrieve both marks, so the dog isn’t ever rewarded by a switch. 

That allows a more effective application of the drill because I allow the dog to complete the switch and establish a hunt in the long fall area. Just as he commits to the hunt, “Toot” – nick – “Toot”, and then “Toot, toot” to direct the dog to come back into the go bird fall area, where the bird boy will have already replaced the fall with a duck that has no line attached to it. This rewards the dog for hunting the fall area of the go bird, in direct opposition to having been corrected in the long fall.

I do not send them for the long mark, where they’ve just received a correction.

In the rare case of a dog hunting so diligently for the go bird that he will not leave it to switch, I instruct my bird boy to be ready to sneak out a bird on my cue, and to do so in a manner that the dog will not see him do it. That is a reward for a diligent hunt. But that rarely occurs.

Questions?

*Evan*


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## dback (May 28, 2006)

Thanks Evan,

I am new at this and have always been reluctant to show my inexperience by asking too many stupid questions but I'm not going to pass up the chance to talk to you. We've got the single whistle (remote sit) and triple whistle (recall) down, but I didn't know anything about a double? Would you describe it's application? A very old FT'er taught me this drill to keep a young dog in the AOF and it has worked well.

Thanks again,


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## cakaiser (Jul 12, 2007)

Yes, question, do you do this drill with all dogs with the purpose of de-switching, or just for the habitual offenders?


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## Peake (Jan 3, 2003)

Nice thorough explanation of this classic drill Evan! Who do you give credit to as the originator?
Thanks in Advance,
Peake

PS Will there be a Smartworks DVD soon to be released much like DL's timeless Walking Baseball?
________
HOW TO MAKE IOLITE BETTER


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## Angie B (Sep 30, 2003)

cakaiser said:


> Yes, question, do you do this drill with all dogs with the purpose of de-switching, or just for the habitual offenders?


I do it 4 times a year at least with all dogs. There is a variation of the drill that uses just a single with multiple repeats. Young dogs that do not handle get this. I found the drill doing just singles from Retrievers Online a long, long time ago...

It's a standard drill that teaches a dog to hunt tight in a fall area.

Angie


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## Rainmaker (Feb 27, 2005)

How do you do it with singles for young dogs that don't handle? I've been looking for a good description since I heard about it but don't know a good method for non-handling dogs. 

Thanks much,


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## Evan (Jan 5, 2003)

Peake said:


> Nice thorough explanation of this classic drill Evan! Who do you give credit to as the originator?
> Thanks in Advance,
> Peake


You're welcome, Peake. I really don't know who to give credit to on this one. As you know, it's been around a long time, but with variations on its application. But I learned it originally from D.L.. I learned a lot from him, especially about how dogs learn.


Peake said:


> PS Will there be a Smartworks DVD soon to be released much like DL's timeless *Walking Baseball*?


Already is! And I give full credit to D.L.. That one was entirely his creation. I just tried to provide a simpler explanation for it via video.

Evan


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## Evan (Jan 5, 2003)

cakaiser said:


> Yes, question, do you do this drill with all dogs with the purpose of de-switching, or just for the habitual offenders?


Both. I apply it differently depending upon the need. You're quite right about using it for de-switching. Very effecitve.

The application differs for more habitual offenders, as well as dogs that tend to hunt loose or show clear lack of effort. I use a variation of it that I saw at Carr's that I still have in my notes called a "Box drill", or "Boxing-in drill".

Evan


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## Evan (Jan 5, 2003)

Rainmaker said:


> How do you do it with singles for young dogs that don't handle? I've been looking for a good description since I heard about it but don't know a good method for non-handling dogs.
> 
> Thanks much,


I wouldn't. This is the type of drill you only want to perform for dogs that have the necessary skills to do it and benefit from having done it. Can you? Sure. Should you? I don't really think so.

Evan


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## Evan (Jan 5, 2003)

dback said:


> Thanks Evan,
> 
> I am new at this and have always been reluctant to show my inexperience by asking too many stupid questions but I'm not going to pass up the chance to talk to you. We've got the single whistle (remote sit) and triple whistle (recall) down, but I didn't know anything about a double? Would you describe it's application? A very old FT'er taught me this drill to keep a young dog in the AOF and it has worked well.
> 
> Thanks again,












Take a look at this double. Let's say you run the drill using this one. I would throw the short mark first; the dirt clod. The longer mark would be thrown second; a bird. 

To preclude the risk of having the dogs fall for suction to the shorter mark en route to the longer one, I would suggest sending the dog the instant the long mark hits the ground while the dog is focused on it. Then send for the shorter mark as a memory mark and follow the procedure as outlined.

Of course this is only one configuration of double you could use for this. A converging (or "pinched") double is also very good for it.

Evan


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## cakaiser (Jul 12, 2007)

How is the dog going to switch on this set up? How short is the memory mark?


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## Evan (Jan 5, 2003)

cakaiser said:


> How is the dog going to switch on this set up? How short is the memory mark?


You can change proximity according to the level of problem you feel you have with a certain dog. But what will most likely occur in this particular double is that the dog will leave the area of the fall, and return to hunt the old (longer) fall.

As I see it, this would be the same infraction - dynamically. It demonstrates the same lack of commitment to stay with the hunt.

My preference for de-switching is the converging double, but I don't have one web hosted at this time, or I would have used that.

Evan


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## Angie B (Sep 30, 2003)

Evan said:


> I wouldn't. This is the type of drill you only want to perform for dogs that have the necessary skills to do it and benefit from having done it. Can you? Sure. Should you? I don't really think so.
> 
> Evan


Boy I disagree there. It's not used as a cure for for switching when doing it as singles obviously. It teaches tight hunts and perserverance on dogs at a young age. Works great and would not do without it since learning about it in Online a long time ago.

Thank you Dennis Voigt!!!

Angie


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## Evan (Jan 5, 2003)

Angie B said:


> Boy I disagree there. It's not used as a cure for for switching when doing it as singles obviously. It teaches tight hunts and perserverance on dogs at a young age. Works great and would not do without it since learning about it in Online a long time ago.
> 
> Thank you Dennis Voigt!!!
> 
> Angie


"How do you do it with singles for young dogs that don't handle?"

That was the question I was addressing. This operates outside the procedure I've outlined here. How do you propose to manage this without handling skills?

Evan


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## Kevin WI (Mar 14, 2003)

Your post alluded to a diagram....didn't see one???


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## Rainmaker (Feb 27, 2005)

I should have been more specific, I understand the drill as used for switching with a handling dog, but have heard of dirt clod drills as singles for young dogs to focus and stay in the area of the fall as Angie mentions, instead of taking off on a wide hunt if they don't find the bird right away, especially when introducing heavier cover, multiple gunner stations or other suction. Was looking at it more as a perserverence drill in that respect. Will take a look through my Retriever Online mags and see if it's in there or go to the archives if it isn't. Currently, I have the bird boy help or launch another bumper if training alone but didn't know if there was a better option.

Thanks.


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## Klamath Hunting Gold (Nov 12, 2005)

Evan, 
Out of curiousity... where would you put this in your program? 
I have SW I and II and dont believe it is in either one.


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## Dog Pro (Apr 9, 2008)

I'm with Angie on this one,mandatory on young dogs,makes for tighter hunts


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## Evan (Jan 5, 2003)

Klamath Hunting Gold said:


> Evan,
> Out of curiousity... where would you put this in your program?
> I have SW I and II and dont believe it is in either one.


It isn't. I wrote about it to answer someone's inquiry about a dog that chronically switched. It has several applications, and for more than one problem.

The tight/loose hunt question keeps coming up, but that isn't the application I was alluduing to. I'm still waiting for someone to outline the application of it for a dog that doesn't handle yet - singles or not.

Evan


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## Klamath Hunting Gold (Nov 12, 2005)

Thanks Evan.


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## Evan (Jan 5, 2003)

You're welcome.

I want to point out that I do use a version of this procedure to directly address chronic loose hunts, but I use doubles, not singles. I also do it with dogs that have a good strong set of handling skills.

Evan


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## DarrinGreene (Feb 8, 2007)

I'm curious on how you do it with a young dog too...

And when you say young, how young (in training, not age)?

You're making corrections on marks prior to transition?


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## budsdad (Jan 28, 2008)

Angie B said:


> Boy I disagree there. It's not used as a cure for for switching when doing it as singles obviously. It teaches tight hunts and perserverance on dogs at a young age. Works great and would not do without it since learning about it in Online a long time ago.
> 
> Thank you Dennis Voigt!!!
> 
> Angie


angie,

Do you ever run into "popping" problems when using this on young dogs? Or, do "popping" problems on marks only occur after they are handling?


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## Angie B (Sep 30, 2003)

budsdad said:


> angie,
> 
> Do you ever run into "popping" problems when using this on young dogs? Or, do "popping" problems on marks only occur after they are handling?


Actually your/my pro at the time, Dave Rorem told me use it to de-pop dogs that happen to develope this problem when marking.

Nitro who is on Rorems truck now had this problem when he was transitioning out of the yard. His confidence on marks was low and he would only give a good effort on marking if they were very easy marks. When progressing him back up to speed on his marking he would quit and pop during the hunt or give huge gorilla hunts. Dave suggested this drill to get him once again reasponsible about his marking. It work slicker then slick.

When used as singles you have the bird boy throw a bird flat. Send dog. Then repeat the throw but this time throw a dirt clob, cow chip, corn cob,,, but not a stick!!! Dog goes out and hunts and hunts. Bird Boy keeps the dog in the fall area. When the handler is satisfied with the length and quality of hunt he then radios's the bird boy to chuck the bird out without the dog seeing him do so. Repeat the drill with a angle back throw and a angle in throw. This is a marking drill. Going to the same fall area multiple times is allowed to teach the concept of staying in a fall area. I've never seen any fallout from using this drill with young dogs. I got this drill out of Online some 8 years ago. It works great!! Popping doesn't occur in this drill with young dogs because, 1.) they've been there already and they retrieved a bird so they_ know_ it's there somewhere. 2.) The bird boy keeps the dog in the fall area and moving.

With older dogs I'll do a double and have the memory bird picked up by bird boy and then handle to keep the dog in the fall area. If the dog pops the dog is cast with a nic back to the fall.

Angie


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## budsdad (Jan 28, 2008)

Angie B said:


> Actually your/my pro at the time, Dave Rorem told me use it to de-pop dogs that happen to develope this problem when marking.
> 
> 
> Angie


Thanks. That is exatly why I asked. Buddy is in the process of getting "depopped" right now.


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## Evan (Jan 5, 2003)

Angie B said:


> Bird Boy keeps the dog in the fall area.
> 
> Angie


How? What do you have him do? Is this just a noise-type help to keep him in the area...motion...both?

Evan


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## Gun_Dog2002 (Apr 22, 2003)

I do this drill as well as a variation for older dogs. In my variation I use a mama/papa setup, have the station throw a bird to one side in open easy to find cover. Run it as a single. Then throw it again as a double, bird in the open, bumper in the thicker cover. Depending on the level of the dog I'll either have them pick up the bird first or the bumper first. I also use the wind to help increase/decrease the difficulty. 

/Paul


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## Angie B (Sep 30, 2003)

DarrinGreene said:


> I'm curious on how you do it with a young dog too...
> 
> And when you say young, how young (in training, not age)?
> 
> You're making corrections on marks prior to transition?


Not handling yet....

Angie


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## Evan (Jan 5, 2003)

Angie B said:


> Not handling yet....
> 
> Angie


Originally Posted by *Angie B*  
_Bird Boy keeps the dog in the fall area._

_Angie_

How? What do you have him do? Is this just a noise-type help to keep him in the area...motion...both?

Is pressure given as correction for a failed/loose hunt? How? What is the mechanism?

Evan


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## JS (Oct 27, 2003)

Well, I'm neither as good looking nor as experienced as Angie, but I would guess the bird boy would "hey, hey" 'em back into the area same as you do when they are learning puppy marks and get lost. Only difference would be there is no bird there originally, setting them up to leave the area before getting them back.
Would that not work to tighten up a loose hunt?

JS


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## Angie B (Sep 30, 2003)

JS said:


> Well, I'm neither as good looking nor as experienced as Angie, but I would guess the bird boy would "hey, hey" 'em back into the area same as you do when they are learning puppy marks and get lost. Only difference would be there is no bird there originally, setting them up to leave the area before getting them back.
> Would that not work to tighten up a loose hunt?
> 
> JS


There ya go!! I guess I thought Evan was ribbing me needing indepth info on how a bird boy helps a dog stay in the fall area if the dog doesn't handle... "Hey, Hey" to keep the dog there along with maybe a step or two twords the bird fall. If the young dog blows outta there then it's not ready to be in the field marking anyway. We keep those newbies with ADD home and marking at the kennel until they "can stay on task"....

Angie


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## Mike Peters-labguy23 (Feb 9, 2003)

Angie B said:


> When used as singles you have the bird boy throw a bird flat. Send dog. Then repeat the throw but this time throw a dirt clob, cow chip, corn cob,,, but not a stick!!! Dog goes out and hunts and hunts. Bird Boy keeps the dog in the fall area. When the handler is satisfied with the length and quality of hunt he then radios's the bird boy to chuck the bird out without the dog seeing him do so. Repeat the drill with a angle back throw and a angle in throw. This is a marking drill. Going to the same fall area multiple times is allowed to teach the concept of staying in a fall area. I've never seen any fallout from using this drill with young dogs. I got this drill out of Online some 8 years ago. It works great!! Popping doesn't occur in this drill with young dogs because, 1.) they've been there already and they retrieved a bird so they_ know_ it's there somewhere. 2.) The bird boy keeps the dog in the fall area and moving.
> 
> With older dogs I'll do a double and have the memory bird picked up by bird boy and then handle to keep the dog in the fall area. If the dog pops the dog is cast with a nic back to the fall.
> 
> Angie


That is how I have done the Dirt Clod drill too. May also have come from Online too!


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## Rainmaker (Feb 27, 2005)

Thank you for all the instructions & advice, very helpful and appreciated.


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## Evan (Jan 5, 2003)

Angie B said:


> There ya go!! *I guess I thought Evan was ribbing me* needing indepth info on how a bird boy helps a dog stay in the fall area if the dog doesn't handle... "Hey, Hey" to keep the dog there along with maybe a step or two twords the bird fall. If the young dog blows outta there then it's not ready to be in the field marking anyway. We keep those newbies with ADD home and marking at the kennel until they "can stay on task"....
> 
> Angie


Nope! But we have to know how many more new or inexperienced trainers lurk and read than there are who post. This is, of course, quite a different application for a different group of dogs. So it requires a different approach.

It's just a good idea that needed finishing so the inexperienced folks don't get the idea that this one involves pressure or handling. It's a very different application than the one I mentioned. These two certainly aren't the only types of dirt clod drills though, are they?! 

Evan


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## Aussie (Jan 4, 2003)

I am going to ask a read stupid question......why are the dogs leaving the area of fall?


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## Evan (Jan 5, 2003)

Aussie said:


> I am going to ask a read stupid question......why are the dogs leaving the area of fall?


If you're asking about the original drill, they're leaving the AOF for a couple reasons. But, most importantly, they are most apt to leave it because they are not adequately committed to the hunt.

First, remember this sentence; "The first step will be to configure a set of double marks with ample suction away from the go bird." So, what precipitates the abandonment of the hunt is a nearby enticing mark. Since there really is no mark to find, the dog is likely to put on a limited hunt, and leave it to go where he thinks he's more likely to find a bird. We use that suction factor to elevate the dog's commitment to maintain his hunt.

Evan


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## Aussie (Jan 4, 2003)

Evan said:


> If you're asking about the original drill, they're leaving the AOF for a couple reasons. But, most importantly, they are most apt to leave it because they are not adequately committed to the hunt.
> 
> Evan


It would be like me leaving a chocolate/(wine LOL), shop and leaving empty handed. 


Thanks interesting topic.


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## Sabireley (Feb 2, 2005)

I will resurrect this one because I am going to use it with my young dog (22mo). The dog marks well does derby level marks and has jammed a derby. She is used to coming into the area of the fall and finding the bird pretty easily. She comes into the AOF, head up looking. If she mismarks the fall, runs to the top of the hill, or the bird (flyer) falls outside the area scented by previous flyers, she will set up a pretty loose hunt and will eventually bail out. She is not that inclined to switch or return to an old fall, but will just hunt in neverland. I need to teach her to set up a tight hunt and stay committed to it.

Thanks!


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## Kenneth Niles Bora (Jul 1, 2004)

Evan said:


> This was something I wrote up in answer to someone's request. But I thought a dog training topic might be refreshing!
> _____________________________________________
> Dirt Clod Drill (aka Cow Chip Drill, etc.).....
> 
> ...


I have a question Evan,
Don’t the dogs simply follow the scent trail directly to your bird boy? I drag ducks to teach the trailing requirement of NAHRA field tests. I think making a scent trail out of your AOF would make the dog trail the cripple.


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## Evan (Jan 5, 2003)

Ken Bora said:


> I have a question Evan,
> Don’t the dogs simply follow the scent trail directly to your bird boy?


Kim's recent post made me look this thread up. Ken, I hadn't seen your question before, so I'll address it now.

The fall area is heavily scented where we will be picking up the mark. I have not seen any dog follow a scent trail back to the bird boy in this drill. But, if he's strongly prone to doing so, why not switch to a dirt clod and follow the same mechanics?

I replied to Kim on another board, but I thought it might be useful to the discussion to also bring it here. I suggested something on the order of a Box Drill.










Take a look at this double. Let's say you run the drill using this one. I would throw the short mark first; the dirt clod. The longer mark would be thrown second; a bird. The theoretical "box" is shown in blue, and loosely represents an allowable hunt area for the dog being treated for this problem. Obviously, if he doesn't check down into a hunt at all, he's violating the box. 

To preclude the risk of having the dogs fall for suction to the shorter mark en route to the longer one, I would suggest sending the dog the instant the long mark hits the ground while the dog is focused on it. Then send for the shorter mark as a memory mark and follow the procedure as outlined. 

Of course this is only one configuration of double you could use for this. A converging (or "pinched") double is also very good for it. 

You can change proximity according to the level of problem you feel you have with a certain dog. But what will most likely occur in this particular double is that the dog will leave the area of the fall, and return to hunt the old (longer) fall. I should also point out that there should be ample distance between the depth of the short and longer marks with longer one separated by at least 50 from the shorter one. 

As I see it, switching or not committing to a hunt on the Go bird would be the same infraction - dynamically. It demonstrates the same lack of commitment to stay with the hunt. 

To be clear about this, I had asked some questions about some of the ideas others had on this subject. Please understand, I'm always interested in fresh ideas and adaptations of procedures. _In my view_, running dirt clod drills or more especially something like a Box Drill without handling skills changes it to another drill with very different mechanics, and largely altered results. Neither good nor bad, but certainly different.

Evan


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## Kenneth Niles Bora (Jul 1, 2004)

Thank you Evan, my question was only about any issues you have had by changing over/not using any more, dirt clods to using ducks on strings. Heavily scented area, I understand. Dirt clod is classic, I was/am concerned only that a dog/pup already started on trailing would follow your trail of scent out of the AOF and to bird boy. I have always done the drill with chunks of earth. One time had a dog pinpoint mark and retrieve the clod, oh well. Have you ever done the drill, with the duck on a string, with a dog that trails?
Thanks again.

Ken Bora


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## Evan (Jan 5, 2003)

Ken,

No, but I can see it happening now and then! That's when a dog trainer just chuckles and changes gears!

Evan


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## Kris Hunt (Feb 25, 2005)

Your bird on a string could always be a hen pheasant, that would minimize the trailing effect a little bit anyway.

Great thread, learned a couple new ideas Evan on the 'box' set up you had. got a dog that really needs this one.

kris


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## Chris Atkinson (Jan 3, 2003)

Evan said:


> This was something I wrote up in answer to someone's request. But I thought a dog training topic might be refreshing!
> _____________________________________________
> Dirt Clod Drill (aka Cow Chip Drill, etc.)
> 
> ...


I haven't had time to read the whole thread, just the first post. My concern with this method is how one prevents the dog from trailing the initially "reeled in" duck to the birdboy. And if the dog does follow the scent trail that was laid down to the birdboy, are you going to "correct" him?

It seems that ducks sometimes will walk off in a trial and I'd think you'd want the dog to: go to the AOF, pick up the scent trail, follow the duck trail, find the duck and retrieve it.

My concern with the drill as listed is that it teaches the dog to follow a scent trail to the hidden gunner, or that there will be a scent trail actually made by the duck that fell, and he'll get corrected for following it.

How do you get around these concerns?


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## Angie B (Sep 30, 2003)

Chris Atkinson said:


> I haven't had time to read the whole thread, just the first post. My concern with this method is how one prevents the dog from trailing the initially "reeled in" duck to the birdboy. And if the dog does follow the scent trail that was laid down to the birdboy, are you going to "correct" him?
> 
> It seems that ducks sometimes will walk off in a trial and I'd think you'd want the dog to: go to the AOF, pick up the scent trail, follow the duck trail, find the duck and retrieve it.
> 
> ...


I could see how this could be an issue. I personally have the bird boy run out and pick it up. 

Angie


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## Chris Atkinson (Jan 3, 2003)

Angie B said:


> I could see how this could be an issue. I personally have the bird boy run out and pick it up.
> 
> Angie


That makes good sense to me Angie. 

I'm sending you a PM...not about this drill, about music.

Chris


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## Rainmaker (Feb 27, 2005)

Angie B said:


> I could see how this could be an issue. I personally have the bird boy run out and pick it up.
> 
> Angie


Me too and boy, do I have fun running this drill with 5 dogs in a row and seeing my husband have to both move quick and pay attention. ;-)


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## Evan (Jan 5, 2003)

Chris Atkinson said:


> I haven't had time to read the whole thread, just the first post. My concern with this method is how one prevents the dog from trailing the initially "reeled in" duck to the birdboy. And if the dog does follow the scent trail that was laid down to the birdboy, are you going to "correct" him?
> 
> It seems that ducks sometimes will walk off in a trial and I'd think you'd want the dog to: go to the AOF, pick up the scent trail, follow the duck trail, find the duck and retrieve it.
> 
> ...


Not a concern at all unless you're throwing the "dirt clod mark" in cover, which I do not do. For several reasons I intentionally pick a spot of bare ground for the fall area and drag scent the spot of the fall in advance. Following drag scent back toward the gunner has never been an issue; not with a single dog in nearly twenty years because of the absence of cover, and because of the marking configurations I use to entice them to run deep.

What nearly all of them have done initially has been to blow throgh the AOF without so much as an effort to check down, and just go long. In a few cases they have made an effort to check down, but have left the hunt without too much effort to stay with it until they have had a few sessions with a correction.

If a dog has established a diligent hunt my BB is instructed to sneak the bird back out to the spot of the original fall when the dog is not looking - thus rewarding them for their diligence. It's very efficient, and has been so consistently.

Evan


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